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Why Secure the End of a Seam
When you sew, there is a starting and an ending point. Have you ever had the seam start to unravel or the thread come loose so the stitching shows as lines of thread at what is supposed to be a seam? Learn to back stitch or lock stitch to secure the beginning and end of your sewing to prevent them from unraveling or from the stitching loosening up and stretching out of shape.
Backstitching is done by sewing backward and forward at the beginning and end of a seam, on top of the seam stitches to... prevent the stitching from coming undone. If you are sewing with a very fine fabric you may not like how back stitching leaves a relatively large amount of thread that can show through the fine fabric, or change the way a fabric will drape or hang. In those cases, you want to use a lock stitch.
In some cases it is best to sew off the fabric, leaving a long tail of thread and then knotting the thread. Sewing a dart is an example of using this technique. Backstitching or a lock stitch would leave an unsightly lump at the pointed end of a dart, but sewing off the end of the point allows for a smooth transition. Here's how to sew darts.Continue to 2 of 3 below.
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How to Sew a Back Stitch With Your Sewing Machine
Every model of sewing machine is a little different but the basics are the same. An industrial sewing machine or a very old home sewing machine may not have the option of sewing in reverse. In those cases, you can leave the needle down and change the direction of the fabric to obtain the same results as sewing in reverse. In all cases, the manual for your sewing machine is the best information source. If you don't have the original manual, you can find replacement manuals.
- When beginning a... seam, place the entire piece of fabric under the presser foot with the fabric aligned with your seam guide and the back of the presser foot.
- Sew in reverse for a couple of stitches to the end of the fabric.
- Stop and sew forward for the length of the seam, keeping the seam guide lined up to sew a consistent seam allowance.
- Sew to the end, stop and sew in reverse for a couple of stitches.
Note: Some sewing machines tend to jam when you reach the end of the fabric. A simple trick can overcome this problem.Continue to 3 of 3 below.
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A Sewing Machine Lockstitch
A built-in lock stitch feature on a sewing machine sews a certain number of stitches and then stops sewing. This option is available on many newer electronic sewing machines. Quilters use this feature to secure quilting stitches without having an unsightly back-stitch visible on their quilts. A lock stitch is also used on sheer fabric and fabric that tends to have a large amount of sweeping drape, since back stitching could interfere, even in a small way, with the natural drape of the fabric.
- On... a sewing machine that has a built-in lock stitch feature, refer to your sewing machine manual.The lock stitch feature sews the same single stitch backward and forwards without numerous stitches repeated.
- On a sewing machine that does not have a built-in lock stitch feature, you can achieve the same result by shortening the stitch length to as short as possible and sewing two to four stitches in that one spot. More than that is apt to jam the machine and create an unsightly thread knot.
- It is also possible to stop the sewing machine stitching, leave a thread tail and then pull one tail to the back side and hand knot the thread tails tight to the fabric.