If you are reluctant to take on the potentially awkward job of painting your ceiling, you are not alone. But there are ways to paint over your head that are less strenuous, help you eliminate most drips, and lets you judge whether you are covering the entire ceiling.
On the bright side, in many cases, you are painting the ceiling white again (with the only caveat is that not all white paints are the same shade). Most same-color painting jobs are far simpler than laying on a new color coat. Painting over your head is made easier when you use the right size nap roller cover and the right length of an extension pole. Once you get the room entirely prepared, you will find that the job of painting your ceiling goes quickly and with only minimum effort.
Basic Tips for Painting the Ceiling
Ceiling paint is formulated differently than wall paint—its thicker and stickier formulation is meant to eliminate most drips, and best used with a roller cover with a 3/8-inch nap if painting a smooth ceiling and a thicker nap for textured ceilings. Flat or matte white ceiling paint is the most popular type of paint for a few significant reasons:
- Flat and matte paint hides imperfections on the ceiling more than satin or glossy finishes that highlight every flaw on the surface.
- The white bounces and reflects more light in the room resulting in a brighter space.
- White ceiling paint provides a limitless vista for your eyes that gives the illusion that the room is larger than it is, whereas a colored ceiling offers the illusion of a smaller space.
Finally, don't worry if you paint your ceiling before or after your walls—either way is fine. Regardless of which order you paint a room, you will inevitably drip or splatter a little bit of ceiling paint on the walls or wall paint on the ceiling that will need touching up. However, if your walls are completely dry, it may be easier to protect every inch of them by running plastic sheeting around the room using painter's tape, as in the photo above, then painting your ceiling.
Equipment / Tools
- Paint roller frame
- inch nap Paint roller cover(s)
- Paint tray and liner(s)
- Angled paint brush or paint edging tool
- Drop cloth
- Plastic sheeting
- Painter's tape
- Putty knife
- Extension pole
- Wood paint stirring stick
- Paint can pour spout
- Latex or nitrile gloves
- Ladder/step ladder
- Interior stain-blocking primer
- Flat, white ceiling paint
- Spackle compound
- Fine-grit sandpaper
- Medium-grit sandpaper
Prepare the Room
Remove as much furniture from the room as possible. Lay down paper or canvas drop cloths on the floor. Lay drop cloths or plastic sheeting on top of furnishings left in the room.
Protection from Roller Splatter
Though paint rollers will give you the best ceiling coverage with much less splatter than paint sprayers, they will still produce a fine, invisible mist of white droplets that will land on surfaces.
Turn off power to the room before removing light fixtures. Remove light fixtures and any smoke detectors. You can leave solid electrical box faceplates because they can be painted over.
Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors should never be painted over.
If you are painting the ceiling after you've painted the walls, now is the time to hang plastic sheeting around the room to protect the vertical surfaces from ceiling paint. Hang plastic sheeting over windows and doors. Then put protective painter's tape over ceiling trim and molding.
Prep the Ceiling
Vacuum the ceilings to remove dust so the primer and paint can better adhere to the surface. Spackle any small holes or tiny cracks in the ceiling (this is an optional step that requires about two more hours to your work time to let the spackle dry so you can sand smooth). Sand any other rough spots on the ceiling with 100-grit sandpaper (optional). Then vacuum the ceiling again after sanding.
Prepare Your Supplies and Tools
Set up the paint liner in the paint tray just outside or to the side of the room so you don't trip on the items while painting. Use the can spout to pour primer into the tray liner. Put a new roller cover on the roller frame. Prepare to put your roller on the extension pole after dipping it into the primer or paint.
Avoid Back Strain
Use the shortest possible extension to minimize the weight of the pole. For example, using a 17-foot roller extension to paint an 8-foot ceiling is overkill because nearly 10 feet of the pole is collapsed into the handle. This excess weight creates strain on your shoulders, arms, and lower back.
Prime the Ceiling
Cut in edges of the ceiling using an angled brush or paint edging tool and primer. Roll on the rest of the primer. Then let the primer dry completely.
Use Stain-Blocking Primer
Use stain-blocking primer to prepare the ceiling's surface for paint. Primer also helps hide more flaws, covers over dinginess, and prevents any stain bleed-through.
Paint the Ceiling's Edges
After the primer has dried, use an angled brush or paint edging tool to paint the edges of the ceiling with the ceiling paint. This band of paint should be around 2 inches to 3 inches wide. You do not need to let the paint around the edges dry before the next step.
Paint the Ceiling in Grids
Change the roller pad on the roller frame. Add a fresh liner to the paint tray and then pour paint into the tray. Fill the roller with paint that is in the paint tray.
Paint the ceiling in 3-foot by 3-foot sections (a small enough area to keep track of what you've covered with paint). To prevent permanent roller marks, start each new section by overlapping onto the wet edges of the preceding section. Painting over wet edges helps to seamlessly blend sections. Apply a second coat of ceiling paint if necessary.
To keep track of what section of the ceiling you've painted, cast a laser level's light on the ceiling. Move the laser line as you finish painting a section.