How to Tile a Countertop Over Laminate

1. Assess the Base for Structural Support

   The laminate usually rests on a base of particleboard (medium-density fiberboard or MDF). If the laminate countertop has been well-maintained, the particleboard may still be in good condition for tiling. If water has contacted the particleboard, the board may sag, break, or flake away. Check underneath: around the sink and especially toward the back. Water stains are common but do not always indicate structural failure. Probe the board with a screwdriver to see if it is stable.

2. Fix Peeling Laminate

   At the top, make sure that the laminate is not peeling away from the particleboard toward the edges. If the countertop is delaminating, the tile will eventually lift up.

   Use contact cement to reapply the laminate. Separate the laminate from the base with a piece of wood as a riser. Apply contact cement to each surface and let them dry to tack. Then, press the laminate down to the base.

3. Remove or Cover Obstructions

   The sink, faucet, cooktop, and all other items that cover the top and sides of the laminate counter must be removed or covered. Removed items is always the best choice, if possible.

4. Roughen the Laminate Surface

   Give the laminate surface a single pass with an orbital oscillating electric sander outfitted with 60 grit paper. The aim is not to sand deeply but to give the surface a sanding that covers it in a field of fine scratches. Avoid chipping the edges with the sander.

5. Clean the Laminate

   For cleaning the laminate, use TSP rather than household cleaning products that may leave a residue. Afterward, use a tack cloth to remove the rest of the dust.

6. Dry-Fit the Tile on the Countertop

   Four-inch-square ceramic tile may not perfectly fit the countertop depth. Prioritize placing uncut tiles in front, with cut tiles in back. If using a rail style tile cutter, you will want to position the ragged cut side against the wall to be later covered up with a backsplash.

7. Cut the Tiles

   In advance of mixing mortar, do all of your tile-cutting. It's best to have all of the tile-cutting done before the more time-sensitive step of working with mortar. Cut the tiles to size either with a wet tile saw or a rail-type cutter.

8. Spread the Mortar and Lay the Tiles

   Working in manageable 2-foot square sections, lay down the mortar and trowel it out with the V-notch trowel. Keep the front and side tiles flush with the edge of the countertop. Use plastic spacers to maintain proper seam width.

   Tip

   Around the sink cutout, bring the tile about 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch away from the edge of the cutout. If the tile is too close, it may impede re-installation of the sink. If the tile is too far away, the lip of the sink may not cover the tiles.

9. Let the Tile Cure

   With most ceramic tile adhesives, the full cure time is 24 to 72 hours. Consult the instructions on the adhesive. It is important to let the tile fully cure or the tiles may shift when grouting.

10. Grout the Tile

    Grout the tiles with the rubber float, moving the float diagonally against the tiles and fully pressing the grout into the seams.

Options

• Cover the Laminate

  If the laminate is peeling too much and cannot be repaired, cover it with a backer board layer. A cement backer board can be applied directly to the laminate. Tape up the seams with fiberglass mesh tape. This gives you a fail-proof surface on which to install your tile, plus it eliminates the need for sanding.

• Add a Backsplash

  The backside of the tile, closest to the wall, will later need to be covered with a backsplash. A backsplash can be created with more of the same tiles that you used on the countertop or you may choose to use marble, copper, or peel-and-stick materials.