DIY: How to Make a Bar Cart

  • 01 of 16

    This DIY Bar Cart Is a Fast, Inexpensive Build

    DIY Bar Cart
    Lee Wallender

    You'll love how easy it is to build this laminated top DIY wood bar cart. Made solely from low-cost one-by-two furring pine boards and a few screws, this is a ridiculously cheap project that you can finish in about two hours.

    This is the most simple cart you can build if you need a place to serve wine or shake up cocktails for a backyard party or for a fun wine and cheese party. It is endlessly flexible, too. Building with pine furring strips is the lowest price and most rustic option. If you would like to create a longer lasting bar cart, substitute the pine for quality hardwoods like hemlock, red oak, or walnut.

    Designed with one wine glass rack to hold three glasses, you can add as many racks as you like. Or custom-cut a hardwood veneer board and place it on top of the middle brace for extra storage.

    With two casters, this cart is easy to move. Finish by staining or painting. Or you can leave as-is, with natural wood.

    Tools and Materials

    Cut List

    Cut the one-by-two boards into pieces with the following measurements:

    • (8) 44 inches
    • (2) 41 inches
    • (4) 36 inches
    • (11) 12 inches
    • (2) 39-1/2 inches
    • (2) 10-1/2 inches
    • (2) 2-1/2 inches
    Continue to 2 of 16 below.
  • 02 of 16

    Lay Out the 44-Inch Boards for the Tabletop

    Lay Out the Boards
    Lee Wallender

    Arrange eight of the 44-inch boards in an attractive fashion for the tabletop. Make sure that big knots and imperfections are on the bottom.

    Continue to 3 of 16 below.
  • 03 of 16

    Spread Glue on the Tabletop Boards

    Apply Glue to Boards
    Lee Wallender

    Flip the boards to their sides.

    Apply a strip of wood glue on the sides. Do not put glue on the outer edge of boards that will form the sides of the tabletop.

    Continue to 4 of 16 below.
  • 04 of 16

    Clamp the Tabletop Boards Together

    Clamp the Table Top Boards
    Lee Wallender

    Laminate the tabletop boards by clamping them together with long woodworking clamps.

    Continue to 5 of 16 below.
  • 05 of 16

    Wipe Glue, Apply Weight to Tabletop Boards

    Add Weight to Flatten Out Boards
    Lee Wallender

    Wipe off the excess glue with rags.

    Lay scrap boards on top of your laminated tabletop, then lay heavy weights on top of the boards. Let the tabletop cure for at least six hours.

    Continue to 6 of 16 below.
  • 06 of 16

    Create Two End Pieces for the Legs

    Create the Two End Pieces
    Lee Wallender

    Build two end pieces that the legs will attach to. Screw two of the 12-inch boards together in an L-shape to create each of the end pieces.

    Continue to 7 of 16 below.
  • 07 of 16

    Attach the End Pieces to the Tabletop

    Attach End Pieces to Table Top
    Lee Wallender

    Attach the end pieces to the bottom of the tabletop with screws. Do not place the end piece directly on the edge of the tabletop. Instead, set back the end pieces by the thickness of one of the one-by-two boards. Use a scrap board to provide the setback distance.

    Continue to 8 of 16 below.
  • 08 of 16

    Build the Middle Brace for the Legs

    Build the Middle Brace
    Lee Wallender

    Create a middle brace in the shape of a rectangle to help strengthen the legs. Build this by using the two 39-1/2 inch pieces for the long sides and the two 10-1/2 inch pieces for the short sides. Attach with screws.

    Continue to 9 of 16 below.
  • 09 of 16

    Mark End Pieces and Middle Brace

    Mark 1.5 Inch From the End
    Lee Wallender

    Make pencil marks on the end pieces and on the short sides of the middle brace to identify where the legs will be placed. Make these marks 1-1/2 inches from the edges, for a total of four marks.

    Continue to 10 of 16 below.
  • 10 of 16

    Attach Legs to End Pieces and the Middle Brace

    Attach Legs to the End Pieces
    Lee Wallender

    Using the four 36-inch-long boards, screw the legs to the end pieces. Position each leg so that it is on the inside of the pencil mark. Complete for all four legs.

    Position the middle brace so that it is about halfway up the legs, then clamp into place. Make sure that each leg is on the inside of each pencil mark. Screw into place from the inside.

    Continue to 11 of 16 below.
  • 11 of 16

    Attach the Two Lengthwise Bottom Braces

    Attach Bottom-Most Leg Braces
    Lee Wallender

    Flip the bar cart upside-down. Attach the two 41-inch boards lengthwise to the legs with screws.

    Continue to 12 of 16 below.
  • 12 of 16

    Attach the 12-Inch Front Brace to the Bottom

    Attach Bottom-Most Front Brace
    Lee Wallender

    Take one of the 12-inch boards. Screw it perpendicular to the lengthwise bottom braces, stepping it back from the edge by about 1 inch.

    Continue to 13 of 16 below.
  • 13 of 16

    Glue and Nail the Legs to the Front/Bottom Brace

    Glue and Nail the Front Legs
    Lee Wallender

    Glue the two 2-1/2 inch pieces of wood onto the front/bottom brace. Clamp and leave for about three hours. Unclamp, gently flip the bar cart over so that it is upright, then nail the legs into place from the top with finish nails. Alternatively, you can nail with a cordless nailer.

    Continue to 14 of 16 below.
  • 14 of 16

    Attach Two Braces to the Back (For Casters)

    Attach Bottom Braces for the Casters
    Lee Wallender

    Similar to the front/bottom brace, screw two of the 12-inch boards perpendicular to the lengthwise bottom brace, stepping them back from the edge by 1 inch.

    Continue to 15 of 16 below.
  • 15 of 16

    Attach the Casters to the Back/Bottom Brace

    Attach the Casters
    Lee Wallender

    Attach the two casters to the back/bottom braces with screws.

    Continue to 16 of 16 below.
  • 16 of 16

    Build and Attach the Wine Glass Rack

    Build the Wine Glass Rack
    Lee Wallender

    Each wine glass rack is built with four 12-inch pieces. Layer one board on top of another board in a stair-step fashion, screwing the top board into the bottom board. Repeat for the other two boards. Nail into place on the bottom of the tabletop, spacing them apart by 3-1/2 inches.