How to Build a Wooden Stool

How to Build a Wooden Stool With a Square Top

1. Cut Legs

   To create the legs for the stool, first turn an 8-foot 2x4 into two 8-foot 2x2s. This is preferred over buying 2x2s because 2x2 lumber from the hardware store will have rounded edges, which isn't ideal for this application.

   To do this, rip 3/16 inches from each of the smaller dimension sides to remove the rounded edges. Next, set the table saw's fence to 1-1/2 inches and rip the board down the middle. This should leave you with two 8-foot 2x2 (actually dimensions are 1-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches) boards without rounded edges.

   Cut the boards into four legs measuring 32 inches in length.

2. Cut Rungs

   To create the horizontal rungs, cut a 1x2 into eight pieces measuring 14 inches. If you prefer a wider stool with a rectangular top, cut half of the rungs to a longer length.

3. Drill Pocket Holes

   On each end of each rung, drill two pocket holes. Make sure the holes on each end are on the same side of the boards so they will be hidden once mounted.

4. Assemble Ladders

   The stool's base will resemble two ladders joined together. To assemble these ladders, lay two legs side by side on your work surface and follow these steps:

   1. Place two rungs between the legs with the pocket holes facing upward.
   2. Rip four pieces of scrap wood to a width of 1/2 inch and slide them beneath each end of the rung for proper spacing.
   3. Adjust the rungs so that one rung sits 12 inches from the end of the legs and the other sits 12 inches from the other end.
   4. Apply wood glue to the end of each rung and clamp the rungs in place between the legs using long trigger clamps.
   5. Check for proper positioning once more, then screw into place with pocket screws.

   Repeat this process to create the second ladder.

5. Join Ladders

   Use the remaining rungs to join the two ladders together, using the same process used to assemble the rungs. Instead of placing the rungs at the same level as before, position them 2 to 4 inches higher when joining the ladders.

6. Mount Seat Supports

   Cut the remaining 2x2 material into four 14-inch pieces and drill two pocket holes in each end, just as you did for the rungs. Use the glue and pocket screw method to mount them at the top of the stool, spaced 3/4 inches from the top.

7. Build Seat

   The seat will consist of three 1x6 boards. The two outside boards will have notches cut at each end. The legs will protrude through the notches and sit flush with the seat. Follow these steps to create the seat:

   1. Cut a 1x6 into three pieces measuring 17 inches.
   2. Place the three boards side by side on a work surface, then space them 1/4 inch apart.
   3. Carefully place the upside-down stool base onto the seat boards, then trace the outline of the legs onto the boards.
   4. Remove the stool base and set it aside.
   5. Use a jigsaw or bandsaw to cut away the portion along the traced lines.

8. Attach Seat

   Arrange the seat boards on the work surface once more and place the upside-down stool base on the seat. Check the position of the boards and adjust if needed. Screw through the bottom of the seat supports into the seat boards using two 2-inch wood screws at the end of each board. To prevent splitting, drill pilot holes.

   Tip

   To help gauge your drill bit's depth, place a piece of tape 2 inches from the end of the bit. This will keep you from drilling through the seat boards.

9. Sand the Stool

   Sand all surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper followed by 220-grit sandpaper.

10. Rout the Seat

    To enhance the seat's comfort and add a stylish visual touch, rout the edge with a round over or chamfer bit, including the exposed end grain of the legs. Follow the router with 220-grit sandpaper.

11. Finish the Stool

    Finish the stool by painting or staining and sealing the wood. If painting, prime with a raw wood primer and finish with a high-quality spray paint.

    If staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner to prevent blotchiness. Stain with your desired color, then follow with a clear sealant such as polyurethane. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and drying times.
    

12. Add Feet

    To protect your floors, attach your desired styled of furniture feet to the bottom of each leg.

How to Build a Stool With a Round Seat

1. Cut Legs

   Use the method in the steps above to turn an 8-foot 2x4 into two 8-foot 2x2s without rounded edges. Then cut the boards into four 30-inch legs.

2. Create Braces

   Rout the four edges of a 1x3 using a roundover bit to create an oval profile. Cut the board into four pieces measuring 15 inches.

3. Mark Notches in Braces

   On one 15-inch brace, mark the center. To find the center, measure over 7-1/2 inches and up 1-1/4 inches. Place the end of a scrap 1x3 against the mark, adjusting until the mark is precisely in the middle of the board. Trace the board to create a 3/4-inch notch that spans half of the board's width.

4. Set Table Saw

   Stack the braces together with the marked brace on top, then tightly tape them together at each end. Set your table saw up with the blade set to 1-1/4 inches and the fence set to a hair past 7-1/8 inches. You may have to remove more material, but this will prevent you from cutting too large of a notch.

5. Notch the Boards

   Carefully cut through all four boards with the table saw. Once you make the first pass, turn the stack around and repeat the cut. Once both cuts are made, move the fence incrementally to remove all of the material between the outer cuts.

6. Dry Fit the "X" Braces

   To form the "X" shapes, slide the two sets of braces together via the notches. Remove additional material if necessary.

7. Drill Pocket Holes

   Drill three equidistant pocket holes on each end of each brace.

8. Join Braces

   Thoroughly apply wood glue to the inside of each notch, then slide the braces together. Drill a pilot hole through the center of each "X," then drive a 2-inch wood screw. Wipe away the excess glue and let dry.

9. Attach Braces to Legs

   Attach the braces to the legs. The first should be positioned 12-inches from the bottom of the legs and the second should be flush with the top. To make this process easier, measure and mark the positions on each leg, then apply glue to the end of each brace.

   Working with opposite legs, place the braces in position and clamp them in place using long trigger clamps. Repeat with the next set of legs. Once you're happy with the fit, drive each pocket screw. Wipe away the excess glue and let dry.

   Tip

   If you desire to hide the pocket holes, you can purchase a set of pocket hole plugs. Simply glue them in place and sand them smoothly before finishing.

10. Make Stool Top

    Use the method above to create three 8-foot 2x2 boards without rounded edges using two 2x4s. Cut the boards into 14 pieces measuring 20 inches. Place the boards on a flat surface and glue them together at their sides to form a roughly 20-inch by 20-inch square. Clamp tightly in place, wipe away the excess glue, and let dry.

    Tip

    Whenever you join wood with wood glue, apply an even layer of wood glue to each side of the joint to maximize the joint's strength. Properly glued joints are stronger than the wood itself.

11. Remove Clamps and Sand

    Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps and sand the wood until smooth using 120-grit sandpaper.

12. Draw and Cut Circle

    Drive a small brad nail into the very center of the stool's seat. Tie a string to the brad nail, then tie a pencil to the other end of the string. Adjust the string so the pencil sits between 9-1/2 inches and 10 inches from the center. With the string taut, trace a circle around the seat.

    Clamp the seat to a work surface and carefully cut the circle out with a jigsaw.

13. Smooth the Circle

    Use an orbital sander to carefully sand the circle's perimeter until smooth, removing any high spots as you go around.

14. Drill Circle Detail

    The seat will feature a circle detail in the center that exposes the bracing detail beneath. Using the mark left by the brad nail as a guide, drill through the seat with a 3-inch hole saw. To prevent splintering, clamp the seat to a scrap piece of plywood before drilling.

15. Rout the Seat

    To improve the comfort and style of the seat, rout the top and bottom edges as well as the circle detail in the center using a round over bit. Follow with 220-grit sandpaper on all surfaces.

16. Mount the Seat

    Place the seat upside down on a work surface, then place the upside-down base onto the seat. Adjust the base until it is centered on the seat. Fasten the seat to the base using eight L brackets with 5/8-inch wood screws. Pre-drill and hand-drive the screws to prevent stripping.

17. Sand the Stool

    Sand all wood surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper.

18. Finish the Stool

    Finish the stool by painting or staining and sealing the wood. If painting, prime with a raw wood primer and finish with high-quality spray paint.

    If staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner to prevent blotchiness. Stain with your desired color, then follow with a clear sealant such as polyurethane. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and drying times.

19. Add Feet

    To protect your floors, attach your desired styled of furniture feet to the bottom of each leg.