Fagioli: That's Beans, In Italian

About Beans And Their Place In the Italian Diet

By Spinoziano (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Mention beans and many people think of winter dishes such as fagiuoli all'uccelletto (white beans cooked with garlic, sage, olive oil, tomato sauce, and, quite often, link sausages), which will stick to the ribs and keep the cold at bay.

However, beans are harvested in summer and can be extraordinarily refreshing in hot weather too. Beginning in June you'll find bins brimming with freshly picked bean pods in Italian markets.

Or, if you're pressed for time, you can buy freshly shelled beans at a much higher cost.

What kinds of beans will you find?

The varieties vary from place to place and many are limited to a specific town or valley. However, you can expect to find cannellini and borlotti almost everywhere.

Cannellini is small, delicately flavored white beans, whereas borlotti are ivory with red streaks, become brown with cooking, and have a more robust flavor some describe as nutty. I have found cannellini in the US, labeled as white kidney beans. Borlotti is instead quite similar to cranberry beans, and indeed large quantities of American dried cranberry beans are labeled borlotti and exported to Italy. Kidney and navy beans are similar to borlotti in flavor and will work as substitutes.

At this point, you may be wondering about the place of beans in the Italian diet.
Now they are a popular vegetable and an important ingredient in a great many kinds of soup.

In the past, however, their role was much more important: "People say, with good reason, that beans are the meat of the poor man," wrote Pellegrino Artusi in 1891 (my translation, from The Art of Eating Well). "Indeed, if, in feeling around in his pocket, a worker unhappily realizes he doesn't have enough to buy a piece of meat sufficient to make a soup for his family, he will find in beans a healthy, nutritious, and inexpensive alternative.

And there's more: beans stay with one for a long time, stifling the pangs of hunger..."

In other works, they were one of the primary sources of protein for a large part of the population. Tuscans weren't referred to as mangiafagioli or bean eaters for nothing.

Purchasing And Cooking Beans:

  • Fresh unshelled beans are well worth the extra effort they require, and kids love to shell them. At least I did, and so do my kids. Look them over before you buy them. The beans should press up through the pods, which should be clean and blemish free. If the beans look like minuscule bumps, or if the pods look dried out or have spots of mold, pass them by. Figure about a pound (500 g) per person; this will translate into about a half pound of shelled beans per person. Beans are good reheated, so don't worry about getting too many. There's no need to soak them if they're fresh.
  • When using dried beans, figure between a quarter and a third of a pound per person. Here again, the beans should be whole and blemish-free. If their skins are shriveled, they're too old. Pick them over to remove the stray stone that may have crept into the bag, and soak them overnight in twice their volume of water before cooking them. You can also quick soak them by bringing them to a boil in the water, removing them from the heat, and letting them sit, covered, for about an hour.

    One thing: Beans are, alas, a stormy vegetable, and people have resorted to many strategies to keep the thunder at bay. Artusi suggests one select thin-skinned beans, but this is not always possible. Another technique is to soak the beans overnight in water that has had a little soda added to it; this will help diminish their potency. Be sure to rinse them very well the next morning before you cook them, however -- drain them in a colander, and stir them about while wetting them down with a sprayer.

    When it comes to cooking your beans, the standard Italian technique is to boil them in enough water to cover them by at least an inch, while keeping a little more hot water on hand in case more proves necessary. Boil them gently until they reach the soft-but-firm stage; the exact time will depend upon the freshness of the beans: With fresh beans, it can be as little as 20 minutes, whereas with dried beans it can be an hour or more.

    Salt them only towards the end of the cooking process because salt added too soon toughens them. Don't let them overcook lest they become mushy and fall apart, and remember, if you are planning something in which the cooked beans will then be cooked some more (for example fagiuoli all'uccelletto or minestrone), to adjust your cooking time accordingly. While you can boil your beans in plain water, it's common practice to add a couple of cloves of garlic, one or two peppercorns, and several leaves of fresh sage, especially to borlotti. The bean broth makes a wonderful addition to a hearty vegetable soup (for example, minestrone) and is also perfect for reheating leftover beans. So don't dispose of it as soon as the beans are cooked.

    To serve boiled beans as a side dish in summer, boil them with the above-mentioned garlic, pepper, and sage, seasoning them to taste with salt towards the end of the cooking time. Let them cool and remove them from the bean pot with a slotted spoon. Drizzle them with fresh olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste, and serve them cool; you'll find them tremendously refreshing. If you instead want to make a meal of your beans, thinly slice a medium sized sweet (as opposed to acrid) onion into them before you drizzle them with the oil, and crumble some canned tuna into them too (figure a couple of ounces, 50 g, per person). Good crusty bread to mop up the drippings, a tossed green salad seasoned with olive oil and vinegar, a nice fruity white wine along the lines of a Vermentino dei Colli di Luni, and you're in business!

    Not Summer, Or:
    Looking For Something Else? Bean Recipes

    About Beans. Already know? Recipes, Then:

    Beans in a Meatless Sauce, or Fasoi in Salsa de Magro
    Beans gain a zesty zing from anchovies in this summer favorite from the Vicentino.

    Fagioli alla Mugnaia
    I'm not quite certain what millers have to do with this refreshing bean salad from the Marches.

    Fagioli, Cipolla e Cingherlin
    A refreshing been-and-cheese salad from Lombardia.

    Fagioli al Fiasco
    The Tuscan equivalent of baked beans, and some ideas for fava beans too.

    Fagioli al Fiasco
    The traditional hearthside technique for making this Tuscan delight (in my review of The Magic of Fire).

    Fagioli Freschi alla Mantovana
    A tasty bean-based vegetable medley that will also work well with pasta if you don't cook all the water out of it.

    Fagioli Freddi al Cumino
    Cumin adds a pleasing exotic note to this refreshing plate of beans.

    Fagioli Stufati
    A variation on Fagioli al Fiasco, with some thoughts on bean cooking in general.

    Fagioli col Formaggio, in Forno
    Tuscan baked beans with cheese and herbs, to warm heart ans soul in winter.

    Fagioli con Pancetta e Radicchio
    A rich, hearty beans dish with pancetta and radicchio rosso, from Friuli.

    Fagioli alla Gallurese
    A hearty Sardinian bean dish, with cabbage, wild fennel and pancetta to add body.

    Fagioli all'Uccelletto
    Boiled beans, with just a bit of tomato too. Perfect with sausages in winter!

    Polenta coi Fasoi
    Polenta with beans makes for a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.

    Fagioli in Umido
    Stewed beans, a simple, tasty recipe from Lombardia.

    Fagioli in Salsa di Acciughe
    Beans with a zesty anchovy sauce, from the Veneto.

    The Piemontese equivalent of pork and beans is perfect over polenta.

    So is what's made in nearby Emilia

    While We're On The Subject Of Beans, Some Soup Recipes:

    Fave e Aiete
    A fava bean and chard soup from Basilicata, the instep of the boot.

    Pasta e Fagioli
    About as hearty as one can get, and tasty too.

    Maccu di San 'Gnuseppi
    A rich Sicilian legume soup for San Giuseppe, and also a traditional way of clearing out the pantry at the beginning of spring.

    Zuppa Lombarda
    An extremely simple Tuscan bean soup, with beans, bean broth and toasted bread highlighted by fresh olive oil.

    Fregula e Fagioli
    The Sardinian equivalent of Pasta e Fagioli.

    Two of the best uses imaginable for day-old bread, and one soup that makes winter worth getting excited over.

    A recipe based on Pellegrino Artusi's, with sobering thoughts on 19th century life.

    Minestra di Fagioli
    A simple, tasty bean soup.

    Pasta e Fagioli Vicentina Style, or Pasta e Fasui a la Visentina
    In the Vicentino pasta e fasoi is made with fresh tagliatelle, and it does make a difference.