Hyacinth Plant Profile

Orange and blue Hyacinth blossoms in a garden.

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One of the loveliest scents of spring comes from hyacinths in blooms. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and spikes of bright colors. Hyacinths are in the Asparagaceae family. Introduced to Europe in the 16th century, its popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today, there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are among the easiest to grow spring bulbs. Hyacinth bulbs are also easy to plant or force in pots. The large bulbs and sturdy stems are also wonderful grown in water in a bulb vase—no soil required.

Botanical Name Hyacinthus orientalis
Common Name Hyacinth
Plant Type Perennial flower
Mature Size Six to 12 inches tall and four to nine inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH 6 to 7
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, yellow, pink, red, apricot, lavender, blue, and purple
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
Native Area Eastern Mediterranean
Woman holding box of 20 hyacinth bulbs with the start of growth.
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About 30 varieties of hyacinth orientalis, including purple, pink, and white, growing in a pot
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Hyacinthus bulbs planted in a terracotta pot
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How to Grow Hyacinth

For the strongest and farthest-reaching scent, grow hyacinth in large blocks. Hyacinth also mix well with any of the spring-blooming bulbs, since they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. The smaller Roman (sometimes called French) and Mutiflora cultivars of hyacinth look a bit more natural and can be used in woodland settings or along walkways.

Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. Plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall 6-8 weeks before first frost for spring garden blooms. Plant them root end down (widest side), about 4 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about three to four inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well.

Some of the taller varieties may flop. You can stake them if you only have a few. Otherwise, consider planting them closer together so that they support one another. Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks to encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs. Leave the leaves to help direct energy to the bulb. Remove the leaves when they start to turn yellow.

All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can protect them somewhat by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.


Plant your hyacinth bulbs in full sun to partial shade. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade into dormancy before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Hyacinth are early bloomers that bloom in late winter or early spring, depending on your hardiness zone.


Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they do best in a soil that is loose and well drained. They will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy hyacinth, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. 


Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter, if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot.

Temperature and Humidity

Hyacinth can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. They may need some winter protection in zones lower than 4, and some pre-chilling in zones above 8, depending on the variety. Dig up the bulbs where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees and chill them for 6 to 10 weeks. Unfortunately, hyacinths are short-lived and will probably last only three or four years. Many people treat them as tender perennials and replace yearly due to decline.


The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs, or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well.

Propagating Hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs don't usually live for more than about three or four years. If you'd like to propagate more hyacinth bulbs, wait until late summer and gently lift the bulbs. Remove the small offsets forming around the edges of the bulbs, and replant everything, including the original bulbs. Be patient, because it will take a few years for the offsets to bloom. Since the plants can disappear in mid-summer, mark their locations while they're still in bloom.

Varieties of Hyacinth

The following hyacinth varieties are single-flower:

  • Hyacinth Orientalis 'Blue Jacket' bluish-purple
  • Hyacinth Orientalis 'Carnegie': pure white
  • Hyacinth Orientalis 'City of Haarlem': buttery yellow
  • Hyacinth Orientalis 'Delft Blue': soft blue
  • Hyacinth Orientalis 'Jan Bos': fuchsia

Toxicity of Hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs contain oxalic acid, which can cause an itchy skin reaction in some people. If you are sensitive, wear gloves when handling the bulbs. Oxalic acid is also toxic when eaten, so seek care for humans or pets that eat the bulbs.

Growing in Containers

When planting in pots, the bulbs can be spaced more closely than when planting in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water.

Keep the soil damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer.

If you are potting hyacinth indoors for forcing early blooms, you will either need to purchase pre-chilled bulbs or pre-chill them yourself.