How to Make an Easy Brick Patio Pattern for Beginners

1. Mark the Patio Edges

   Use stakes and mason's line to create layout lines for the patio. Base the dimensions on the brick paver size; the lines should represent the outer edges of the brick, not the edging. You can create a layout with just four stakes, but a better method is to drive two stakes at each corner, placed about two feet beyond the sides of the patio.

   When you tie lines to the stakes, the points where the lines cross mark the actual corners of the patio. This setup allows you to excavate and prepare the entire patio area without having the stakes get in the way.

   Make sure the string layout is square by measuring diagonally between opposing corners (where the strings meet); the layout is square when the diagonal measurements are equal.

2. Slope the Strings

   Place a line level on each layout string and adjust one end of the string up or down, as needed, so the line is perfectly level. Then, lower the strings on the downhill end of the patio 1/4 inch per linear foot of patio length.

   For example, if the patio is 10 feet long, it will slope down 2 1/2 inches from one end to the other. The downhill end is where you want water to run off of the patio. Typically, this should be the end farthest from the house, so surface water sheds away from the house foundation.

3. Excavate the Area

   Excavate the patio area to a depth of eight inches, extending the excavation about six inches beyond the brick layout on all sides. Slope the soil to follow the layout lines, measuring down from the lines as you go to maintain an 8-inch depth.

   Excavate to full depth along the two sides, then dig out the center, checking with a long, straight 2x4 board and a level to ensure the entire area is flat and level from side to side; the soil base will slope toward the downhill end but will be level from side to side. Tamp the soil thoroughly with a hand tamp or a rented plate compactor.

4. Add a Gravel Base

   Pour compactible gravel inside the excavated area to a depth of four inches. Rake the gravel smooth and level, slope it to follow the string layout, and tamp it so that it is thoroughly compacted.

5. Install Paver Edging

   Install paver edging along the perimeter of the patio, following the manufacturer's directions. Standard plastic edging is designed for brick patios and is largely concealed when the bricks are in place. It is installed with metal spikes.

   Line up bricks along the edges to make sure the edging placement is accurate (so that you won’t have to cut any bricks). The edging should fit snugly against the test-fit bricks. Remove the test-fit bricks, keeping the edging in place.

6. Add the Sand Layer

   Lay landscape fabric over the gravel; this suppresses weeds and separates the gravel from the sand layer. Pour two inches of sand over the landscape fabric. Use the 2x4 as a screed to smooth and level the sand. There should be two inches between the top of the sand and the top of the patio edging. Remove the layout strings and stakes.

   Tip

   Spray the sand with a gentle mist of water until it is thoroughly soaked. This helps to concentrate and compact the sand.

7. Lay the First Row of Bricks

   Lay the first bricks, starting in one corner and running along the edging to complete a row. Alternate each pair of bricks so that two are perpendicular to the edge, then two are parallel, and so on. Press the bricks gently into the sand, and put them together as closely as possible. Tap the bricks with a rubber mallet to settle them into the sand, if necessary.

   Run a mason's line across the first row, aligned with the leading edges of the bricks. Pull the line taut and secure it at the ends with stakes, or simply clamp them to the edging. Straighten the bricks in the first row, as needed, so all leading edges are even with the line.

8. Lay the Remaining Bricks

   Install the remaining bricks, one row at a time, moving the mason's line for each row. For comfort and to prevent moving the installed bricks, lay a sheet of plywood atop the bricks to kneel on while you work. The last row should fit snugly against the edging.

9. Lock the Bricks With Polymeric Sand

   Polymeric sand stiffens in the joints between pavers to "lock" them in place and prevent weed intrusion. Spread polymeric sand over the bricks, then sweep across the patio surface with a push broom to work the sand into the cracks. Sweep in multiple directions to reach all cracks, adding sand as you go until the cracks are filled.

   Gently spray the patio with a garden hose to settle the sand in the cracks. This will activate the sand to start the stiffening process. Spread and sweep more sand into the cracks, and then spray again, until the cracks are completely filled and the sand is settled. 

10. Backfill the Edging

    Backfill behind the brick edging with soil and sod or other landscape material. This partially hides the edging to create a finished look, and it helps to hold the pavers and edging in place.

Tips for Building a Brick Patio

If you need to cut some bricks to fit your layout, you can use a hammer and masonry chisel or a circular saw with a masonry blade. But if you have a lot of cuts to make, it's worth it to rent a brick splitter or a masonry wet saw for half a day. These tools make much faster, cleaner cuts than a hammer or handheld saw. The best blade to use for saw cuts is a diamond blade. Alternatively, you can use an abrasive blade, but it may wear down quickly and won't cut as cleanly.