How to Build a DIY Floating Bed Frame

Cut the Lumber for the Base Frame

Using a miter saw, cut your lumber to the following dimensions:

• 2 x 2x6s at 48 inches
• 3 x 2x6s at 56 1/2 inches
• 6 x 2x6s at 22 1/2 inches
• 10 x 2x4s at 11 inches

Cut the Lumber for the Top Frame

Using a miter saw, cut your lumber to the following dimensions:

• 2 x 2x6s at 60 inches
• 3 x 2x6s at 78 inches
• 10 x 2x6s at 28 1/2 inches

Cut the Plywood for the Top

Use a circular saw to cut two sheets of plywood down to 40 1/2 x 60 inches. Depending on your level of skill with a circular saw, you can use a chalk line to mark your cut, or clamp a 8-foot straight edge—like a straight piece of lumber or a spirit level—onto the plywood to guide the circular saw. Using a straight edge to guide your saw will produce a straighter cut, especially if you have limited experience with using a circular saw.

Assemble the Base Frame

Measuring from the end of one of the 48-inch boards, make a mark at 23 1/4 inches on the top edge of the board. Use a speed square to mark a straight line perpendicularly onto the face of the board at the mark. Mark an X on the outside—on the opposite side you’re pulling the tape measure from—of the line.

Lay the 48-inch board you marked edge to edge with the second 48-inch board, and transfer the mark onto the second board with a framing square. These marks are where the center support board will go.

Secure one of 56 1/2-inch boards to the outside of one of the 48-inch boards. Rest the edge of the 56 1/2-inch board on the face of the 48-inch board, holding the end of the 56 1/2-inch piece flush to the top and outside edge of the 48-inch piece. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping wood screws through the back of the 48-inch board into the end of the 56 1/2-inch board.

Repeat these steps on the opposite end of the 48-inch board with another 56 1/2-inch board.

Place the edge of the third 56 1/2-inch board—the center support board—onto the X of one of the 48-inch boards. Ensure that the edge of the board is flush with the straight line you marked at 23 1/4 inches, and the top edge of the 48-inch board. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping screws through the back of the 48-inch board into the end of the center support board.

Install the Base Frame Blocking

Measuring from one end of one of the 48-inch boards, make a mark every 13 1/4 inches along the top edge of the 56 1/2-inch board fastened to it. Use a speed square to mark a perpendicular line across the face of the board at each one of these marks, and mark an X on the opposite side of the line that you pulled your tape measure from.

Repeat these steps on the other side of the frame, and on the center support board. This will be where your support blocks go.

Place the edge of one of the 22 1/2-inch boards—the blocks—onto one of the Xs you made on one of the outside 56 1/2-inch boards. Ensure that the edge of the block is flush with the straight line you marked at 13 1/4 inches, and the top edge of the 56 1/2-inch board. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping screws through the back of the 56 1/2-inch board into the end of the block.

Rest the other end of the block onto the corresponding line and X on the center support board. Toenail two screws—top and bottom—from one side of the block into the 56 1/2-inch board, and toenail one screw through the center of the other side of the block into the 56 1/2-inch board.

Repeat the above steps for all six blocks on each of the marks you made.

Install Vertical 2x4s Onto the Base Frame

Place one 11-inch 2x4 into each of the four inside corners of the frame, where the three 48-inch boards meet the two 56 1/2-inch boards. Stand the 2x4s upright so they protrude 5 1/2-inch from the top of the frame. Hold the 3 1/2-inch face of the 2x4 against the 5 1/2-inch face of the 48-inch board, and drive two screws through each 2x4 into the 48-inch boards.

Repeat this process on each one of the blocks, by securing the remaining six 2x4s to the inside corners of the blocks and 56 1/2-inch boards.

Assemble the Top Frame

Measuring from the end of one of the 60-inch boards, make a mark at 29 1/4 inches on the top edge of the board. Use a speed square to mark a straight line perpendicularly onto the face of the board at the mark. Mark an X on the outside—on the opposite side you’re pulling the tape measure from—of the line.

Lay the 60-inch board you marked edge to edge with the second 60-inch board, and transfer the mark onto the second board with a framing square. These marks are where the center support board will go.

Secure one of 78-inch boards to the outside of one of the 60-inch boards. Rest the edge of the 78-inch board on the face of the 60-inch board, with the end of the 78-inch board flush to the top and outside edge of the 60-inch board. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping wood screws through the back of the 60-inch board into the end of the 78-inch board.

Repeat these steps on the opposite end of the 60-inch board with another 78-inch board.

Place the edge of the third 78-inch board—the center support board—onto the X of one of the 60-inch boards. Ensure that the edge of the board is flush with the straight line you marked at 29 1/4-inch, and the top edge of the 60-inch board. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping screws through the back of the 60-inch board into the end of the center support board.

Install the Top Frame Blocking

Measuring from one end of one of the 60-inch boards, make a mark every 13 1/4 inches along the top edge of the 78-inch board fastened to it. Use a speed square to mark a perpendicular line across the face of the board at each one of these marks, and mark an X on the opposite side of the line that you pulled your tape measure from.

Repeat these steps on the other side of the frame, and on the center support board. This will be where your support blocks go.

Place the edge of one of the 28 1/2-inch boards—the blocks—onto one of the Xs you made on one of the outside 78-inch boards. Ensure that the edge of the block is flush with the straight line you marked at 13 1/4 inches, and the top edge of the 78-inch board. Drive two 2 1/2-inch self-tapping screws through the back of the 78-inch board into the end of the block.

Rest the other end of the block onto the corresponding line and X on the center support board. Toenail two screws—top and bottom—from one side of the block into the 78-inch board, and toenail one screw through the center of the other side of the block into the 78-inch board.

Repeat the above steps for all 10 blocks on each of the marks you made.

Attach the Top Frame to the Base Frame

Using a helper, lift the top frame onto the top of the base frame, resting the top frame's center support board onto the base frame's center support board. The blocks on both frames should be aligned with one-another, and the vertical 2x4s protruding from the base frame should rest against the face of the top frame's blocks.

Drive two screws through each of the 2x4s into the top frame's blocks.

Attach the Plywood to the Top Frame

Use a caulking gun to spread construction adhesive evenly over the top edges of the top frame. This includes the four sides, the center support board, and the 10 blocks. Place the plywood onto the top frame, with the two 40 1/2-inch sides meeting in the center, and the 60-inch sides flush to the outsides of the frame.

Drive 1 5/8-inch self-tapping screws every 12 inches around the outside perimeter and down the center of the plywood.