How to Build a Shower

1. Mark Shower Location

   With the tape measure and pencil, mark out the area on the floor where you want to install the shower enclosure.

2. Add Sill Plates

   To build a shower enclosure in a corner, you will need to build one extra wall to create an alcove. Cut a piece of two-by-four to the width of the alcove wall and attach it to the floor with deck screws.

3. Extend Studs to Ceiling

   Attach two studs to the sill plate and run them upward to the ceiling. Attach to the ceiling with another two-by-four the length of the sill plate. Add two more studs between those side studs.

   Tip

   For example: For a 36-inch alcove wall, space the four studs 13 inches apart from each other rather than the customary 16-inch stud spacing for walls.

4. Install Drain Pipe and Branch Line

   
   With a jigsaw, cut a drain access hole in the floor at the drain location. Have a plumber install the drain pipe and branch line below the shower floor. Cut off the ABS or PVC pipe flush with the floor with a hacksaw.

5. Add Supply Plumbing Supports

   Attach two two-by-fours between wall studs, one high and one low, to act as supports for the faucet controls and for the showerhead.

6. Attach Tailpiece to Shower Pan

   Turn the shower pan upside down and attach the drain tailpiece that came with the shower pan. Use a spud wrench to tighten the tailpiece. Be careful not to break the tailpiece.

7. Set Shower Pan

   
   Cover the drain with a rag. Carefully pour mortar or thinset on the floor around the drain. This will help stabilize the shower pan. Lay the shower pan into place in the wet mortar or thinset. Use a bubble level to bring the shower pan to level.

8. Attach Shower Pan to Enclosure

   Screw the nailing fins of the top part of the shower pan against the wall studs.

9. Run Water Supply Pipes to Regulator Area

   Run the hot and cold water supply lines upward from the floor. Use either PEX or copper pipe. Stop at the lower support.

10. Attach Shower Regulator to Pipes

    Attach the shower regulator to the support. Attach the water supply lines to the shower regulator.

11. Continue Pipe to Shower Head Area

    Continue a single PEX or copper line upward from the shower regulator to the upper support. Attach to a 90-degree drop ear elbow. Secure the elbow to the support with screws.

12. Cut Cement Board

    With the utility knife, cut pieces of cement board to the size of the inside of the enclosure. Cut by scoring a line on the front of the cement board, snap, turn over, then continue the cut on the back. Create holes for the shower controls and the showerhead by cutting holes either with a jigsaw or with a hole saw attached to a drill.

    Aim to install as few pieces of cement board and seams as possible.

    Tip

    You can either continue the cement board all the way to the ceiling or you can have a band of drywall along the top. For new-construction installations, you'll probably want to go all the way with cement board. If this is a remodel where you removed existing tile, you may want to keep that upper area of drywall. If so, make sure that you buy cement board that is the same thickness as the drywall to keep the two surfaces flush with each other.

13. Attach Cement Board to Enclosure and Add Seam Tape

    Use cement board screws to attach the cement boards to the inside of the enclosure. Cut and apply seam tape to all of the seams between the cement boards. Press thinset into the seam tape with the putty knife and smooth it down.

    Let the thinset dry. Mix the liquid membrane with a stirring stick. Use a chip brush to brush the liquid membrane on all seams.

14. Roll Liquid Membrane on Cement Board

    Pour liquid membrane into a lined paint tray. Put a roller cover on a paint roller, then roll out membrane across all visible surfaces of the cement board. Wait for the membrane to dry, then add a second coat.

15. Plan Tile Horizontal Design

    While the liquid membrane is curing, plan the tile design. Horizontally, each wall should start with one tile in the center, then extend symmetrically on each side to adjoining walls. The end tiles most likely will need to be cut to fit this space. If the two end tiles will not be the same width when cut, adjust the center tile accordingly.

16. Plan Tile Vertical Design

    Use the tape measure, pencil, and one of the tiles to calculate the starting point of the second row of tiles from the bottom. Vertically, tiles should run from the ceiling down to within 1/8-inch of the upper lip of the shower pan. In some cases, the tiles will perfectly fit, but usually not. In this case, plan to have the cut row be the very bottom row.

17. Add Ledger Board

    Screw a one-by-two ledger board in place just under the second row from the bottom.

18. Spread Thinset

    Mix up the dry thinset with water until it has a peanut butter–like consistency. Spread thinset on the lower area with the notched trowel just above the ledger board. Work in sections about 2-foot by 2-foot.

19. Add Tiles

    Press tiles into the wet thinset. Pull off the first tile to make sure that it is fully covered in back. After every several tiles, add plastic spacers between the tiles.

    Continue with the tiling above the ledger board. Cut tiles with a wet tile saw or rail type tile cutter.

20. Complete First Row to Shower Pan

    After a couple of hours, remove the ledger board. Finish off the first row of tile. You may need to cut each tile individually to fit its space.

    Tip

    Remember to keep that 1/8-inch gap in place between the bottom of the tile and the top of the shower pan.

21. Add Grout

    With all of the tile in place and set, remove the tile spacers. Use the rubber tile float or another grout tool to spread grout diagonally across the surface of the tiles. Press firmly to make sure that the grout fills the seams.

    To wipe away excess grout, wet the tile sponge in warm water. Lightly wipe the surface of the tile to remove excess grout. Be sure not to pull out any of the wet grout from between the tiles.

    After the grout has dried, apply grout sealant to waterproof the grout.

22. Add Silicone Sealant

    Add a tube of silicone caulk to the caulking gun. Cut the end of the tube, then add caulk to all joints between tiles, such as at corners, below the lower edge of tile, and at the very top where tile meets the ceiling.

23. Complete Shower Controls

    Install the rest of the shower controls, including the escutcheon.

24. Add Showerhead

    Screw the shower arm into the top, add the flange, then screw the showerhead into the arm.

When to Call a Professional

A bathroom remodeling contractor or a general contractor can build your entire shower for you, as they can subcontract the work to the various trades. If you're hiring trades piecemeal, you'll need to line up a general carpenter, a plumbing company that does remodeling work (not just emergency plumbing work), and a tiler. If you feel at all uncertain about your ability to complete this project properly, call a professional. Remember that several trades are involved in a bathroom remodel, and a qualified, licensed contractor can be an excellent (and sometimes necessary) resource for ensuring your bathroom is water-tight and well-constructed.