How to Repair Gutters

Gutters on a House

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Project Overview
  • Working Time: 30 mins - 1 hr
  • Total Time: 30 mins - 1 hr
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $50+

Gutters catch water runoff from your roof and channel it away from the foundation. It's a simple, clean process. But when gutters are not functioning, they allow water to pour off the side and pool up around the home. This is more than just an annoyance; this can create hydrostatic pressure in the soil, damaging your foundation.

But because gutters are simple, repairs are simple too. Keep in mind that you might not need all the tools and supplies listed here. Read through the varying issues you might need to repair before gathering your tools and supplies to begin work.

Safety Considerations

When working on gutters, you will likely be on a ladder, sometimes a rather tall one. Take care to keep the ladder stable while you work. It's always a good idea to have a partner helping you with a gutter project. While it can be an easy do-it-yourself job to handle gutters on the lower level of your home, if you have gutters on a second floor or higher, it's best to call a professional to handle the work.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Ladder
  • Bubble level
  • Hammer
  • Tin snips
  • Garden hose
  • Screwdrivers
  • Cordless drill and drivers

Materials

  • Plastic shims
  • Downspout drop outlet
  • Gutter sealant
  • Gutter screws and/or nails
  • Gutter/downspout straps
  • Flashing material

Instructions

  1. Straighten a Sagging Gutter

    Sagging gutters are out of level from the back to the front. You should be able to place a bubble level sideways across the gutter and have the bubble remain dead-center.

    Sagging can be attributed to large amounts of water backing up and standing in the gutters. When this happens repeatedly over time, the gutter hangers will eventually loosen. Or wood fascia board rots and the fasteners do not hold as securely as before.

    A short-term, temporary fix is to wedge a series of plastic shims between the back of the gutter and the fascia board. Force the shims upward until the gutter levels out again. Tack the shims into place on the fascia board to prevent them from dropping down.

    The long-term solution is to remove the gutter and to rebuild the fascia board with a PVC board.

  2. Tighten the Downspouts

    Downspouts are the vertical sections of closed pipe that convey water from the gutters to the ground.

    Downspouts that have loosened from the gutters are usually the result of missing or torn-out screws that are meant to attach the downspouts to the gutters. This is especially the case when, instead of using outlets, the installer cut out the gutter into flaps and attached the downspout to the flaps.

    Downspouts, too, can become loosened from the side of the house. The two problems work in concert with each other: After the downspouts loosen from the gutters, they create stress and loosen the straps that secure the downspouts to the house.

    Fit a downspout drop outlet into the gutter. Seal it with gutter sealant and screw it into place with gutter screws. Then, fit the downspout onto the outlet (from the bottom). Use screws to attach the downspout onto the outlet in at least two spots. Follow up by fixing the downspout against the side of the house with straps.

  3. Seal Up Gutter Leaks

    Gutter leaks are water leaks that happen over the side of the gutters, at the ends near end-caps or downspouts, or at some point along the length of the gutters. Separating gutter joints are gutters that are pulling apart at any of the seams; it could be along the run of the gutters or at inside or outside corners.

    Seamed gutters might be separating at the joints along the run. Seamed or seamless gutters are prone to leaking at end caps and at elbows. Gutters may rust out if they are made of steel. But all three types of gutter materials—steel, aluminum, and vinyl—can develop holes or cracks after being damaged. Even gutters that function on a basic level with small holes will have pronounced leakage when they are clogged.

    End caps can usually be tapped back into place and sealed with gutter sealant. Gutter slip connectors may have separated from the gutter itself. In some cases, you may be able to tap the gutter back into place from the end.

    For holes and cracks, use tin snips to cut out a patch from flashing material. Cement the patch into place with gutter sealant.

  4. Clear Out Clogs

    Clogged gutters have a blockage at any point in the run. This clog can be anywhere from the middle of the gutters down to the bottom of the downspouts. When water fills gutters, this overburdens the gutters and may lead to sagging.

    Leaves or other debris may be clogging the gutters or downspouts. Straight gutter or downspout runs are less of a problem than downspout elbows. Any kind of turn is a prime area for clogging. You may also find debris clogging the end of the gutters at the hole leading down to the downspouts.

    Access the top of the gutter with a ladder to try to find the blockage. If the block is around the access point to the drainpipe, remove the clog. With a hose, run water down the downspout. If debris emerges from the bottom and water flows freely, you have cleared the clog. Otherwise, disassemble the elbows from the downspout and clear them out individually with a hose.

  5. Correct the Slope

    Water standstill in gutters is a condition where the water no longer moves in the direction of the downspouts. In some cases, the water might even move backward.

    If the water has not stopped flowing due to a clog, it's usually because the slope is not adequate to move the water down to the downspout.

    The gutters may have been improperly installed in the first place. Or the gutters might be loosening in one part of the run. If the fascia is failing, it can change the slope of the gutters.

    Generally, you'll need to remove the gutter and mounting brackets. If the fascia is in bad shape, you should replace it. Install the gutter so that the slope ranges from 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch vertical drop per 10 feet horizontal. A 1/4-inch drop is a safe average.