How to Fix a Leaning Fence

Learn to repair a broken post or a tilting footer

Wood Privacy Fence

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Project Overview
  • Working Time: 1 - 2 hrs
  • Total Time: 1 - 2 days
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $40 to $80

A leaning fence is unsafe and makes your property look disheveled. A fence post may be weakened or broken at ground level because of rot, or a concrete post footer might be tilting due to wind or physical impact. Read on to learn how to fix a leaning fence without rebuilding the fence or replacing fence posts.

Legal and Permitting Considerations

Check with your local building and permitting department for code or permitting requirements relating to fence repair. When repairing both sides of a fence post, note that a property-line fence may be mutually owned by adjacent neighbors. So, seek permission from the neighbor before entering the property and fixing their side of the fence.

Safety Considerations

Wear safety glasses and hearing protection when hammering a fence mender with a sledgehammer. When mixing concrete, wear breathing protection.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

Repairing a Broken Post

  • Sledgehammer
  • Impact drill/driver
  • Hex drive socket set
  • Socket wrench set (optional)
  • Drill bit set
  • Shovel
  • Eye and hearing protection

Repairing a Tilting Footer

  • Electric drill
  • Hammer
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Garden hoe
  • Garden hose and fresh water supply
  • Breathing protection


Repairing a Broken Post

  • 2 Metal fence post menders
  • 8 Galvanized hex-head connector screws (#9 x 1-1/2-inch)

Repairing a Tilting Footer

  • Scrap two-by-fours
  • Quick-mix concrete, 50-pound bag
  • 3-inch screws


Repairing a Leaning Fence That Has a Broken Post

Repair a fence that is leaning due to a rotting post at ground level by wedging a metal post mender between the fence post and the concrete footer. Breaks above ground level can be repaired with a fence post mender, too.

  1. Remove Dirt From the Fence Post Base

    Dig out dirt and debris from the base of the fence post. Dig to the top of the concrete fence post footer. If there is no footer or if the footer is made of expanding foam, a post mender can still be used. Do not use a post mender with spike-style fence post anchors.

  2. Place the Post Mender on the Post

    Position the fence post mender against the side of the fence post. The driving point of the post mender should rest at the junction of the post footer and the post.


    It is important to place the tip of the mender at the junction and not on top of the concrete footer. You may need to slightly angle the mender outward to ensure that the mender wedges between the footer and the post.

  3. Hammer the Post Mender

    Hammer the post mender on the driving plate, located on the side of the post mender. As assistant may need to hold the post mender in place for the first few blows. For safety, the assistant should hold the post mender at top.

  4. Drive the Mender the Rest of the Way

    Hammer the top of the post mender until the mender has penetrated one foot or the depth recommended by the mending product manufacturer.

  5. Secure the Mender to the Fence

    Drive at least four galvanized hex-head screws in the mender to connect the mender to the post. Pre-drill pilot holes, then use a hex-head driver in an electric impact drill/driver to secure the fasteners. A socket wrench set can be used instead of an impact drill.


    For breaks above ground level, place the mender over the break. Attach two or more fasteners above the break and an equal number of fasteners below the break.

  6. Add a Post Mender to the Other Side

    Repeat the installation of the second post mender on the opposite side of the fence.

  7. Replace the Soil

    Replace the removed soil around the fence post. Grade the soil down from the post to prevent water from pooling around the post and rotting the base.

Repairing a Leaning Fence That Has a Tilting Footer

Repair a fence that is leaning due to a tilting concrete footer by bracing the post vertically and then filling the soil void with concrete.

  1. Push the Fence Upright

    Screw one end of a scrap two-by-four to the top of the fence post with a 3-inch screw. Have an assistant push the fence upright. Check for plumb (vertical) by placing a bubble level against the fence post.

  2. Brace the Fence

    Anchor the other end of the two-by-four to the ground with a sharpened wood stake and attach it with another 3-inch screw.

  3. Dig Around the Fence Post Hole

    Dig around the fence post hole on the side that had been tilting. Clear a space eight to 10 inches away from the post footer and to the depth of the footer.

  4. Mix the Concrete

    Mix the concrete in the wheelbarrow. Use fresh water from a hose attached to an outdoor faucet. Mix the water into the concrete with the garden hoe. Use about 3-1/2 U.S. pints of water per 50-pound bag of concrete.

  5. Pour the Concrete

    Pour the concrete into the fence post hole. Tamp down the concrete with scrap wood to expel air bubbles. Pour to slightly above ground level.

  6. Trowel the Concrete

    Trowel the concrete downward from the fence post to promote water drainage.

  7. Remove the Braces

    Let the concrete cure for one or two days before removing the fence braces.

When to Call a Professional

Call a fence installation company if the leaning fence extends beyond just a few fence posts. A complete fence rebuild may be the best solution when the entire fence or long stretches of the fence are leaning.