Whether you have an unorganized workshop, a space-challenged kitchen, or an in-home workspace in need of a smart storage solution, installing a pegboard is sure to be a great organizational decision for your space. Pegboards are inexpensive, highly customizable, and incredibly easy to install on your own. Follow along with our helpful steps to ensure your pegboard is safely installed, secure, and guaranteed to maximize its storage potential.
Before You Begin
The first step toward unlocking the immense storage potential of a pegboard is to determine which type best suits your needs. While you may think there is only one type of pegboard, there are actually many different types tailored for a variety of different uses and spaces. The most common pegboard options are masonite (standard pegboard material from the hardwood store), metal, and plastic. In addition to materials, there are also many custom pegboard-type storage options available that feature specific hole and peg designs for even more customization options.
For most people, a standard masonite pegboard is more than capable of handling all types of storage needs. For those in need of a heavy-duty storage solution, metal pegboard panels can handle some serious weight, including tool organization. Plastic pegboards are lightweight, yet offer a durable, strong mounting surface that is unfazed by moisture exposure and great for humid environments.
Additionally, pegboards are sold in different size panels. While a standard masonite pegboard can easily be cut to size with a circular saw, this may not be the case with other options. Keep this in mind when purchasing and be sure to properly measure your space beforehand.
Choosing the wrong pegboard for your space or installing it poorly can have frustrating consequences. For instance, a standard masonite pegboard installed in a wet or overly humid environment can be compromised by the exposure, leading to weak fibers that give way when supporting the weight of your tools. If your space has any exposed wires or unkempt electrical components, a metal pegboard may not be the best option.
Equipment / Tools
- Measuring tape
- 4-foot level
- Drill bits
- Stud finder
- Chalk box (optional)
- Circular saw
- Painting supplies (optional)
- Pegboard panel
- 1x2 furring strips
- 2 1/2-inch self-drilling wood screws
- Bonding primer (optional)
- Paint (optional)
How to Hang a Standard Pegboard
The following steps will lay out exactly how to mount a standard 4x8 pegboard on drywall. The process can easily be modified for different pegboards and different mounting surfaces.
Cut the Pegboard to Size
If your pegboard needs to be cut down to fit in your space, use a tape measure to measure and mark the desired dimensions, create a straight cutting line using a straightedge or chalk box, then carefully cut down the line with a circular saw.
Cut Furring Strips
Because of the design of a standard pegboard, when mounted on a flat surface, furring strips are required to create a space between the mounting surface of the pegboard. This allows the hooks to pass through the holes in the pegboard and anchor on the back.
The main furring strips will rest along the top and bottom horizontal edges of the pegboard. To create these, cut two 1x2 furring strips to the length of the pegboard.
Mount Upper Furring Strip
Determine the height where you'd like the top edge of your pegboard to rest and use a stud finder to mark each stud along the full distance. Use a level to ensure each mark rests along a level line. Use self-drilling 2 1/2-inch wood screws to mount the upper furring strip to the wall along the level line.
Mount Lower Furring Strip
To position the lower furring strip, turn your level vertically and use it to mark the studs 4 feet below the top furring strip. Once marked, use a tape measure to mark exactly 4 feet from the top of the top furring strip.
Place the level horizontally against the wall on the line you've marked, and mark a horizontal line across the wall. Place the bottom edge of your lower furring strip against the horizontal line you marked and repeat the mounting process you used before.
Mount Additional Supports
Any additional supports are up to you and your intended uses for the pegboard. Some sources say you should add a vertical furring strip along each stud the pegboard crosses, but this is likely unnecessary for most uses. Additionally, this amount of bracing would allow a standard pegboard to hold more weight than the pegboard itself is capable of supporting long-term.
We recommend cutting furring strips into 6-inch pieces and, at minimum, placing one vertically on the center-most stud, as well as one in the middle of each outermost stud, to stiffen the pegboard and minimize movement.
Place the pegboard against the wall and align it with the outer edges of the top and bottom furring strips. For extra strength, use the same 2-1/2-inch wood screws as before fitted with washers.
Start by screwing into the center support, then place a screw in each corner. Place more screws into the remainder of the furring strips spaced approximately 8 to 12 inches apart.
Paint Pegboard (Optional)
If you wish, you can paint your pegboard to better fit your space's aesthetic. To do this, first prime the entire surface with a bonding primer. Once dry, sand the primer if the manufacturer's instructions specify, remove all dust and coat with your paint of choice.
How to Keep a Pegboard in Good Shape
The best way to ensure your pegboard lasts for years to come is to make sure water never comes into contact with it. The fibers in the masonite won't tolerate moisture at all. Painting the pegboard will offer some protection, but moisture should still be avoided at all costs. Additionally, using the appropriate pegboard accessories is key to a long-lasting pegboard. For heavier items, bump up the hook size to 1/4-inch to spread the load across the entire pegboard hole.