How to Install Wall Paneling

How to Install Decorative Wall Paneling

1. Let Panels Condition to Room

   Set the wall panels on edge in the room where they will be installed for 48 hours. Place a couple of scrap two-by-fours or a similar material between every adjacent two panels for airflow.

2. Prepare Wall

   Sand down high spots on the wall. Fill in low spots with drywall compound. Remove obstructions like baseboards and molding.

3. Cut Panels

   Cut the wall panels to size with the circular saw. Cut the panels facing down for a cleaner cut. Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap on all sides.

   So, if cutting wall panels for a room that's 7-1/2 feet or 90 inches tall, subtract 1/2-inch to account for the expansion gap at top and bottom: 89-1/2 inches.

   The 9 Best Circular Saws of 2023

4. Make Cutouts

   Cutouts in the wall paneling need to be made for electric light switches and outlets. Turn off the circuit to the light or the outlet. Remove the faceplate and set it aside. Remove the light switch or outlet. Push the wires back into the box. Use chalk or an old lipstick to draw on the outward-facing rim of the box. Briefly press the wall panel firmly against the wall and remove it. The outline on the back of the board is where you should cut.

   Tip

   If you have a laser level, there's an even easier way to locate boxes on boards. Shoot the level on crosshair line mode to outline two perpendicular sides of the box. Place the panel on the wall. Place a spare box backwards on the crosshairs and draw around the box.

5. Apply Adhesive

   Apply a generous bead of panel adhesive in a zig-zag pattern to the back of the panel.

6. Apply First Panel

   Start in a corner. Don't assume that the corner is plumb or straight. Set the first panel with the laser level or bubble level. Starting in the center of the panel, nail the panel to the wall. Using an electric nailer is recommended since you'll need to drive 20 to 25 nails per panel. After driving the center fasteners, work outward to the perimeter of the panel.

7. Continue Panels

   Continue the other panels on the wall. Smooth down each panel with your hand or with a roller to distribute the adhesive on back of the panel.

How to Install FRP Wall Paneling

1. Prepare Wall Surface

   The wall surface must be porous, clean, and flat. FRP can be installed directly on bare drywall. For painted drywall, lightly scuff the surface of the drywall with sandpaper. Abrade the paint but do not abrade the drywall paper.

2. Prepare Wall

   Repair holes in the wall and, using a putty knife or drywall knife, fill in gaps with drywall compound. Gently pry off baseboards and door and window trim.

3. Cut Panels

   Mark and cut panels with a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade. When cutting the panels, keep in mind the required 1/4-inch expansion gap between panels and between the floor and ceiling,

   Maintain that distance within moldings, too. For example, divider bars (which cover seams between two panels) have a wall in the center of the bar. So, you'll need to be mindful of the expansion gap even within moldings and make sure that the moldings fit a bit loosely.

   Warning

   Wear breathing protection when cutting FRP panels since they contain glass fibers. Also wear eye and hearing protection.

4. Make Cutouts

   Cutouts must be made in the FRP panels for light switches and outlet boxes. After shutting off the circuit breaker, remove the light switch or outlet. Use old lipstick to draw on the room-facing edge of the boxes. After pressing the board to the wall, the board will have an imprint of the boxes on the back. Chalk won't work for FRP since it doesn't stick on the plastic.
   

   Tip

   A sure way to locate electric boxes is with a drywall marker kit. A magnetized plastic target and locater work in tandem to positively find and help you mark electrical boxes. Kits cost $10 to $20.

5. Apply Adhesive to Panel

   With the caulking gun, apply a generous bead of FRP panel adhesive to the back of the panel.

6. Attach Panels to Wall: Center Holes

   Panels typically have pre-drilled holes in two areas: the center of the panel and around the panel's perimeter. Start with the center holes. Drill through the pre-drilled hole, into the wall. Follow by inserting the nylon rivet in the hole. Lightly tap the rivet. Continue until the back of the rivet's head touches the panel.

7. Insert Sealant in Moldings (Optional)

   For complete moisture-resistant installation, run a thin bead of silicone sealant into the channels of all of the moldings.

8. Flatten With Roller

   With the laminate roller, start at the middle of the board and roll outward in all directions to help flatten the panel against the wall.

9. Attach Moldings

   Slide the moldings into place on the panels, observing the 1/4-inch expansion gap. Use divider bars between panels, inside corners on inside corners and outside corners on outside corners. Cap moldings go at the end of a panel series: side, top, or bottom.

10. Attach Panels to Wall: Perimeter Holes

    Conclude attaching panels to the wall by following the manufacturer's recommended sequence of rivets around the perimeters. FRP panels are usually held in place by 20 to 30 rivets per panel.