How to Insulate an Attic

A light and airy bedroom in an attic with natural wood beams, plants, and a fireplace.


Andreas von Einsiedel / Getty Images

  • Working Time: 2 hrs
  • Total Time: 8 hrs
  • Yield: 1,300 square feet of attic
  • Skill Level: Advanced
  • Estimated Cost: $800 to $1,000

If you were forced to pick one energy-saving tactic for your home, what would it be? Caulking the windows? Thermal insulating curtains? Wall insulation and replacement windows might be a natural thought, too.

It's easy to forget about that large energy-wasting surface over your head: the ceiling and attic. According to Energy Star, the best way to save energy in a home is by insulating the attic. This helps you to maintain the temperature of the living space below—and save on energy costs.

Insulation Rolls or Batts vs. Blown-In Insulation

Though blown-in insulation offers a slight advantage for do-it-yourselfers, it helps to consider both methods to determine which one is best for you.

Fiberglass Rolls or Batts

Ceiling fiberglass insulation in rolls is up to 25 feet long and in batt form is 4 feet long. Both are the width of joist cavities. Batts can be obtained in thicker form than rolls, for up to an R-49 thermal value.

What We Like
  • Saves on cost of blower machine

  • Continuous insulation, no gaps

What We Don't Like
  • Laborious to install

  • Difficult when attic has many obstacles

Blown-In Insulation

Fiberglass or cellulose loose-fill insulation is run through a blower machine located on the ground level, with a long hose reaching into the attic. The operator in the attic shoots the insulation throughout the attic and into the cavities, up to a certain depth.

Blown-in insulation requires more preparation time than with batts or rolls. But once the attic is ready, it is possible to cover a medium-size attic space in an hour or two.

What We Like
  • Reduces climbing around attic

  • Requires very little time in attic with the blower hose

  • Easy to fill around wires and vents

What We Don't Like
  • Blower machine rental cost

  • Easy to miss areas when shooting from a distance

Codes, Regulations, and Permits

While it is not common, some communities may require a building permit before adding insulation to an unfinished attic. Check with your local permitting agency before installing any type of attic insulation.

When to Insulate Your Attic

Attics can become very hot. If the outside temperature is 100 degrees F, it is not uncommon for the attic to reach 140 to 150 degrees F—too hot to safely or comfortably work in the attic. Spring or fall tend to be the best seasons for insulating the attic.

Safety Considerations

Insulating your attic requires you to frequently go in and out of the attic and to move around nearly the entire attic. Use a step ladder held by a partner for accessing the attic. Within the attic, walk only on joists or on 3/4-inch plywood or OSB boards laid across the joists. Watch your head against bumping on rafters and especially for roofing nails piercing through the roof deck. Suit yourself up with a full range of personal protection gear: breathing protection, eye protection, long sleeves, pants, and gloves.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Insulation blower machine
  • Extension cord
  • Utility knife
  • Ladder
  • NIOSH or MSHA approved breathing protection
  • Straight edge ruler
  • Caulking gun
  • Light


  • Blown-in fiberglass insulation
  • Drop cloths
  • Attic hatch shield
  • Recessed light covers (if applicable)
  • Caulk


  1. Calculate How Much Insulation You Need

    Measure the length and width of your home to arrive at its area. Next, calculate the desired depth of the blown-in insulation.

    Depth of Expanding Fiberglass Insulation R-Value
    7 inches R-19
    9 inches R-25
    11 inches R-30
    13 inches R-38
    15 inches R-44
    17 inches R-49
    20 inches R-60
  2. Shield Uninsulated Areas

    Because blown-in insulation covers nearly the entire attic, areas that cannot be covered with insulation should be shielded. This includes recessed lights, vents, exhaust fans, and the attic hatch.

  3. Seal the Attic and Add Measuring Strips

    Identify all areas of the attic that will emit air and seal them with caulk. Staple measuring strips on vertical areas, so that you will later know how deep to blow the insulation.

  4. Rent the Correct Insulation Blower

    To blow fiberglass insulation, you will need a certain type of blower for expanding fiberglass insulation. This blower shreds packets of compacted fiberglass insulation. Blowers for loose-fill cellulose insulation may not work.


    Cellulose insulation is made from recycled paper products and uses up to 85-percent recycled materials. Cellulose insulation is rendered inflammable by the addition of fire-retarding borates.

  5. Begin the Blower Machine

    Two people are required: one in the attic with the blower hose and one on the ground feeding insulation into the machine. Hook up the hose to the machine. Move the nozzle end of the hose up through the attic hatch and into the attic. When the person in the attic is ready, the person operating the machine should plug the machine in, then turn it on.

  6. Blow the Insulation in the Attic

    Stand in a central location and blow insulation to the outer-most areas of the attic to the correct depth. Keep blowing toward the center of the attic until the entire attic is covered to the correct depth.

When to Call a Professional

Renting the insulation blower and transporting it to your house, along with many bags of blown-in insulation, can be a project all by itself. So, too, can be the preparation phase. Call an insulation company to blow in your insulation if these projects seem too difficult. If your current loose-fill insulation is moldy and needs to be removed, a company can suction out the insulation for you.

Tips For Insulating Your Attic

  • Use two-way radios, text messaging, or phones to communicate between the ground and the attic.
  • Insulation blowers typically cannot be reversed to suction out old insulation. Hire a company for this, rent a machine, or remove the old insulation by hand.
  • If the insulation is in good shape, it may not need to be removed.