Laying patio pavers is one of the quickest and easiest ways to install outdoor flooring by yourself. Poured concrete slabs, brick, and natural stone all have their advantages, but patio pavers are so cost-effective and simple to work with that you can do the entire job by yourself. Laying pavers on dirt involves a little digging, some compacting, and planning your layout. Then, you'll want to add sand, enough to establish a 1-inch depth across the entire patio area. Our instructions outline the easiest way to lay pavers, whether it's for a walkway, a patio, or around your pool. In just a few days, you'll have a gorgeous spot for outdoor entertaining or just enjoying your backyard in comfort.
Before You Begin
Buy pavers by the pallet and have them delivered to your home, as close to the patio area as possible. Concrete pavers come in many different colors and textures, some even simulating natural stone or brick. Pavers 18-inch by 18-inch or smaller are easier to handle.
The base material should be crushed rock, such as 3/4-inch minus construction gravel. The sharp edges and points of the gravel help the material compact well.
You should always lay pavers on sand, and purchase coarse sand in bulk. Fine sand for sweeping between the joints can be purchased by the bag, since so little of it is needed.
Moving large amounts of heavy materials can take a toll on your body. Use a wheelbarrow. When shoveling, lift from your legs, not your back. Keep in mind that base materials (crushed gravel) are heavier than dirt, so use only partial shovel loads.
Wear breathing protection. Frequently spray the area with water to keep the dust down.
Equipment / Tools
- Carpenter's square
- Crushed rock base material
- 1 bag fine sand (10 pounds)
- Coarse bedding sand
- Garden hose
- Twine or thin rope
- Marking paint
- Wood stakes
- 2 Metal pipes (3/4-inch I.D. diameter)
How To Lay Patio Pavers
The area where you intend to lay pavers should have a slight slope so that water can run off of it. Pooling will eventually create pits in the base material, which further creates more pooling.
First, lay out the general area with a garden hose to get a basic sense of space. Refine this layout by hammering in wood stakes and creating a design with a thin rope or twine. Make sure your lines are even, and use a carpenter's square to get your corners just right. Then, paint an outline 8 inches beyond the staked area.
Calculate Materials to Buy
Use the outline to help you determine the quantity of pavers, base material, and sand to purchase. Measure the length by the width to arrive at the total square footage. Next, add 10 percent to allow for expected wastage. If you will be laying pavers on curves or laying them on a diagonal, increase the excess to 15 or 20 percent.
Dig out the area. If there is turf, remove the turf until you reach the soil below. Place the bubble level on the two-by-four to check for slope. Make sure that the patio slopes down about 1 inch (vertically) per 48 inches (horizontally). You may need to transfer soil or add some sand to create a slope.
For the pavers to be flush with ground-level, dig about 5 inches down to allow for 4 inches of base material, plus 1 inch of sand bedding, plus the 1-inch thickness of the pavers.
Smooth and Tamp Area
Use the shovel and the two-by-four to smooth out the area. Follow by tamping down the soil with the tamping tool.
Lay Base Material
With the wheelbarrow and shovel, transfer the base material to the patio area. After every two or three loads, spread out the material with the shovel and with a rake. Keep the material even across the area.
Smooth out the base material with the two-by-four. Finish by tamping it firmly down.
Add the edge restraint of your choice on top of the base material. Some types of edging may need to be staked into the ground.
Lay Down Coarse Sand
Lay about 1 inch of the coarse (not fine) bedding sand. Be sure to keep the height even across the area as this is the last layer; its height will determine the final height of the patio.
One way to keep the height consistent is to lay down two 3/4-inch pipes, then pour the sand over the pipes. When you screed (or pull) the two-by-four over the pipes, the pipes act as guards that stop the screed from digging any farther down.
After the sand has been laid, carefully remove the pipes. Fill the voids left by the pipes with coarse sand, and carefully smooth out with your hand.
Lay the pavers on the coarse sand base. Avoid walking on the sand. Gently walk on freshly laid pavers to reach subsequent rows. Keep the pavers tight to each other, as wide joints lead to weeds between the pavers.
As you lay the pavers, occasionally tamp down the pavers by gently tapping them with a hammer. Use a small scrap piece of two-by-four to soften the impact and to use as a leveling gauge, so that adjacent pavers are flush with each other.
Add Sand to Joints
With the surface of the patio pavers dry, toss a few handfuls of the fine sand on top. Sweep the sand across the surface so that the sand sifts into the joints between the pavers. When the pavers no longer move underfoot when you walk, the joints have enough sand. Sweep up and discard any excess sand.
When to Call a Professional
While laying patio pavers is a fairly simple, straightforward outdoor project, handling the base materials and the pavers is strenuous work. If you have a large project or if you want to use large-format pavers (24-inch by 24-inch or greater), you may want to have a contractor or landscaping company do the job for you.
Can I lay pavers directly on soil?
What happens if you don't put sand under pavers?
Do I need concrete under my pavers?