How to Make a DIY Wood Headboard

DIY Wood Headboard

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Overview
  • Working Time: 2 - 3 hrs
  • Total Time: 1 - 2 days
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $75 to $100

A DIY headboard made of naturally finished pine gives your bedroom a clean, contemporary appearance. In this project, vertical slats behind the pillows culminate in a horizontal top rail for a perfect touch. With no exposed fasteners, this headboard truly looks like it was professionally built.

This wood headboard couldn't be any easier to make, too. Even if you think you can't build a headboard from scratch, this project walks you through it, step by step. Pine or other softwood is the main building material, so cutting is effortless—even if you decide to use a manual saw instead of an electric saw.

Before You Begin

This DIY headboard attaches to a standard metal bed frame. Metal bed frames always have a pair of stanchions at the head end, one on each side. Each stanchion—an upright, flat piece of metal—has six or so holes for attaching headboards.

An attached headboard is best if you like sitting up in bed to watch videos or read, as it prevents the bed from sliding away from the wall. If you prefer, an easier way to install the headboard is to mount it directly to the wall behind the bed, creating the illusion of an attached headboard.

Bed Frame Sizes

This DIY wood headboard width is designed for a Queen-size bed. Scale the width to your own bed's width.

  • Twin: 38 inches
  • Full: 54 inches
  • Queen: 60 inches
  • King: 76 inches

Safety Considerations

Be careful when cutting with the electric saw. Thoroughly sand down the wood to avoid splinters.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Electric miter saw or hand saw
  • Cordless drill
  • Spring wood clamps
  • Tape measure
  • Carpenter's square or Speed Square
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Clear polyurethane coating
  • Brush
  • Tack cloth
  • Wrench set

Materials

  • 12 one-by-twos
  • 1 one-by-eight
  • 1-inch wood screws
  • 4 2 1/2-inch bolts with lock washers and nuts

Instructions

  1. Cut Wood

    Cut the wood on the miter saw or by hand. Some home centers and lumberyards will custom-cut wood for you, usually charging a small amount per cut.

    Cut List
    Lumber Type Cut Quantity Length (Each) Part
    One-by-two 20 48 inches Vertical slats
    One-by-two 1 60 inches Upper brace
    One-by-two 1 62 inches Top rail
    One-by-eight 1 60 inches Lower brace
  2. Mark Attachment Points on Lower Brace

    The 60-inch one-by-eight lower brace runs the width of the bed. Because it is below the level of the mattress, it will not be visible.

    Temporarily clamp the one-by-eight behind the bed frame stanchions (on the wall side of the stanchions). With the pencil, mark two spots on each end of the board where you will drill holes for bolts. Finish by drilling the holes through.

    Tip

    Stanchions usually have several holes. For the greatest stability, choose two holes on each stanchion that are farthest apart vertically.

  3. Dry-Fit Headboard

    On a clean, flat surface, dry-fit all pieces of the headboard, minus the top rail for now:

    • Upper brace and lower brace parallel to each other and 48 inches apart (when measuring from the far ends of the braces)
    • Two of the vertical slats positioned at the farthest ends of the upper and lower braces and perpendicular to them
  4. Attach Slats to Braces

    Square the two end slats with the upper and lower braces, forming a rectangle. Use the carpenter's square or Speed Square to check for square. Lift up the pieces, add wood glue, then replace them and attach them with screws. Pre-drill with pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.

    Use two screws per slat on the lower brace and one screw per slat on the upper brace.

    Tip

    On the side of the lower brace, mark the position of the drill holes. This will help you avoid driving screws for the vertical slats there.

  5. Attach Center Slats

    Add the remaining 18 vertical slats between the two end slats. Slats should be spaced 1 1/2 inches away from each other (or the true width of a one-by-two).

    As with the end slats, drill pilot holes and then use two screws per lower brace and one screw at the top. Be sure to use wood glue for extra strength, as well.

  6. Continue Drill Holes

    With the drill, continue the holes drilled earlier in the lower brace through end slats.

  7. Add Top Rail

    With wood glue and nails, add the top rail to the top of the headboard. The top rail is designed to be wider than the headboard by 1 inch on each side.

  8. Sand Headboard

    With the sandpaper, smooth down the wood. This step is particularly important because softwoods can be splintery. Clean with the tack cloth.

  9. Add Clear Coating

    With the brush and polyurethane, brush on two coats of clear coating. Water-based polyurethane may dry within 30 minutes or so. If using oil-based polyurethane, the re-coat wait time might be as long as 6 to 8 hours.

  10. Attach Headboard

    Attach the headboard to the bed frame with the 2 1/2-inch bolts. Use the wrench set to thoroughly tighten the bolts.