How to Make a DIY Wood Headboard

How to Make a Wood Headboard

1. Cut Wood

   Cut the wood on the miter saw or by hand. Some home centers and lumberyards will custom-cut wood for you, usually charging a small amount per cut.

   Cut List
   Lumber Type	Cut Quantity	Length (Each)	Part
   One-by-two	20	48 inches	Vertical slats
   One-by-two	1	60 inches	Upper brace
   One-by-two	1	62 inches	Top rail
   One-by-eight	1	60 inches	Lower brace

2. Mark Attachment Points on Lower Brace

   The 60-inch one-by-eight lower brace runs the width of the bed. Because it is below the level of the mattress, it will not be visible.

   Temporarily clamp the one-by-eight behind the bed frame stanchions (on the wall side of the stanchions). With the pencil, mark two spots on each end of the board where you will drill holes for bolts. Finish by drilling the holes through.

   Tip

   Stanchions usually have several holes. For the greatest stability, choose two holes on each stanchion that are farthest apart vertically.

3. Dry-Fit Headboard

   On a clean, flat surface, dry-fit all pieces of the headboard, minus the top rail for now:

   • The upper brace and lower brace should be parallel to each other and 48 inches apart (when measuring from the far ends of the braces).
   • Fit two of the vertical slats positioned at the farthest ends of the upper and lower braces and perpendicular to them.

4. Check if the Frame Is Square

   As you work, check that the frame is perfectly square. Measure the panel from corner to corner with the tape measure. If the measurements are identical, the frame is square. If the measurement varies on one corner, push the framing until measurements are the same before you attach pieces with glue and screws in the following steps.

5. Attach Slats to Braces

   Continue to check for square. Square the two end slats with the upper and lower braces, forming a rectangle. Use the carpenter's square or Speed Square to check for square. Lift up the pieces, add wood glue, then replace them and attach them with screws. Pre-drill with pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.

   Use two screws per slat on the lower brace and one screw per slat on the upper brace.

   Tip

   On the side of the lower brace, mark the position of the drill holes. This will help you avoid driving screws for the vertical slats there.

6. Attach Center Slats

   Add the remaining 18 vertical slats between the two end slats. Slats should be spaced 1 1/2 inches away from each other (or the true width of a one-by-two).

   As with the end slats, drill pilot holes and then use two screws per lower brace and one screw at the top. Be sure to use wood glue for extra strength, as well.

7. Continue Drill Holes

   With the drill, continue the holes drilled earlier in the lower brace through the end slats.

8. Add Top Rail

   With wood glue and nails, add the top rail to the top of the headboard. The top rail is designed to be wider than the headboard by 1 inch on each side.

9. Sand Headboard

   With the sandpaper, smooth down the wood. This step is particularly important because softwoods can be splintery. Clean with the tack cloth.

10. Add Clear Coating

    With the brush and polyurethane, brush on two coats of clear coating. Water-based polyurethane may dry within 30 minutes or so. If using oil-based polyurethane, the re-coat wait time might be as long as 6 to 8 hours.

11. Attach Headboard

    Attach the headboard to the bed frame with the 2 1/2-inch bolts. Use the wrench set to thoroughly tighten the bolts, making sure the bed doesn't squeak.