How to Refinish a Bathtub With a DIY Kit

1. Remove Hardware

   Where possible, remove escutcheons and cover plates from plumbing fixtures. Bathtub spouts can be temporarily unscrewed and removed during refinishing. Make sure to clean away any dirt or caulk residue from around openings in the bathtub, using a putty knife.

2. Clean the Bathtub

   Clean the tub thoroughly and remove all caulking from the joints around the tub. If necessary, use a chemical caulk remover to remove all traces of caulk from the surfaces.

   Use bleach to clean away any mildew stains, then scrub the entire thoroughly with an abrasive cleanser, or with LimeAway applied with an abrasive pad. Rinse thoroughly with clear water.

3. Mask Off Areas Around the Tub

   Use drop cloths and painter's tape to mask off floors and walls around the tub. The epoxy coating will be hard to remove, so make sure to guard against drops and spills.

4. Ventilate the Space

   The etching, sanding, and coating operation will create dust and fumes. In addition to the fumes of the epoxy product, simple sanding can create fiberglass dust that shouldn't be inhaled. Before beginning work, open windows, turn on the exhaust fan, or set up portable fans to improve ventilation in the space. It's also a good idea to wear breathing protection or whatever respiratory equipment is recommended by the product manufacturer.

5. Etch the Tub Surfaces

   If the kit includes an etching powder, apply it to the surface of the tub with water and scrub the surfaces with an abrasive pad. The etching powder helps dull the finish so the new coating will adhere. Rinse the tub thoroughly with clear water.

6. Sand the Tub

   Sand the tub with #400 or #600 with wet/dry sandpaper while it is still wet to further roughen the surfaces. Make sure to roughen all corners and edges of the tub; this is a critical step to ensure the epoxy coating will adhere without later peeling. Thorough sanding is especially important if the kit did not include an etching powder. Rinse the tub and let it dry.

7. Wipe Down the Bathtub

   Wipe the tub with paper towels to make sure it is completely dry, then wipe with a tack cloth to remove any dust or paper residue.

8. Prime the Surfaces

   If the kit includes a primer, apply it to the bathtub surfaces. Apply the primer with a roller and foam brush, and let it dry as directed.

   Some refinishers are self-priming and do not require a separate prime coat. Do not prime bathtub surfaces with ordinary commercial paint primer; use only the primer that is included with the kit you buy.

   Tip

   To avoid leaving lint on the bathtub surfaces, clean the roller cover before applying primer or epoxy coating. A good way to do this is by using sticky tape to pull away any loose lint from the roller cover.

9. Mix the Epoxy Coating

   Blend the hardener/catalyst into the epoxy resin, as directed by the label instructions. You will now need to work fairly steadily, as epoxy coatings gradually begin to harden once they are mixed. The product label will usually tell you how much working time ("open time") you have, but you should be prepared to coat the entire tub in one working session.

10. Apply the Coating

    Begin applying the coating to the sides of the tub with a roller. Alternate between vertical and horizontal strokes to prevent drips and roller ridges. Move on to the tub deck (horizontal surfaces), then roll the tub bottom. Finish the edges as needed with a sponge brush.

    Apply a second coat of coating as directed by the label instructions. Some products require immediately recoating, while others may suggest one or two hours of drying time before applying the second coating.

    Let the final coat dry and cure, as directed by the label. Some products require a full two days of cure time; with others, it may be as long as three days. Keep the area well ventilated for at least the first day of curing.

11. Caulk and Reinstall Hardware

    Seal the tub's joints with fresh silicone caulk and let it cure overnight. Reinstall the faucet hardware. Your refinished bathtub is now ready to use.

When to Call a Professional

DIY refinishing can be a very good temporary solution to a worn, unattractive tub, but it's rare for such refinish coating to last more than a few years before a new application is needed. Most people view DIY refinishing as a stop-gap measure until a full bathtub replacement is practical. If your refinished tub must have an extremely smooth and durable finish, it's best to hire a professional service to perform the refinishing.

Professional tub refinishers often market their process as reglazing. The specific steps they use may differ somewhat, but the basic process is more or less standard. The methods used by professionals are similar to that of DIY kits, but the pros typically spend quite a bit of time repairing chips and cracks—often for an additional fee. Further, the etching process may be done with an acidic solution rather than an abrasive powder, and there is almost always a primer coat applied before the refinisher applies several coats of epoxy coating—usually with a sprayer rather than a roller and brush. The technician may then return a few days later to buff the surface to a shiny finish.

The result is a finish that is usually better than that achieved by DIYers. However, don't expect any refinishing job—even by pros—to be as good as a new bathtub.