How to Remove Old Caulk From a Tub, Shower, or Sink

Old caulk being removed with caulk removal scraper

The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 1 hr, 30 mins
  • Total Time: 8 hrs
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $15 to $25

Before applying new caulk around your bathtub, shower, or sink, you must first remove the old caulk. New caulk doesn't stick to old caulk, so if you fail to remove the old stuff, the new caulk can't form a watertight seal, leaving the potential for moisture to seep into areas where you don't want it.  

The best way to remove caulk is through a combination of chemical caulk remover and manual tools. Chemical removers require some time to soften the caulk, so if you are in a hurry or don't want to use chemicals, you can also remove the caulk with hand tools alone.


Always use plastic tools to remove caulking. Otherwise, you may scratch or mar the surface of the fixture.

One easy way to start the process of caulk removal is to use a ​caulk removal solution, such as the products made by 3M, DAP, and other brands. This chemical remover destroys the bond between the old caulk and the tile, tub, or sink, making it very easy to pry out of cracks and crevices. 

A small bottle of liquid caulk remover will remove about 20 linear feet of caulk—enough for most bathtubs. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.


How to Remove Old Caulk From a Tub, Shower, or Sink

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Plastic putty knife
  • Caulk removal tool or razor scraper


  • Chemical caulk remover
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Cloths


Materials and tools to remove old caulk on wooden surface

The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

  1. Apply the Chemical Caulk Remover and Let Sit

    Squeeze chemical remover onto the old caulk bead, so the caulk is covered completely.

    Let the caulk remover sit on the caulk as directed by the manufacturer's instructions. Some users report that it helps to allow the product to set overnight for maximum effectiveness. 

    Chemical remover sprayed on old caulk in bathtub and wall corner

    The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

  2. Scrape Away the Caulk

    Use a plastic putty knife or other tools to scrape away the old caulk. If possible, try to peel it off in strips as you scrape.  

    Inspect the area thoroughly, and remove any remaining caulk residue with the tool. A caulk removal tool or razor scraper can be useful at this point. To clean up the old caulk remnants, use a shop vac to thoroughly pick up any debris.

    Old caulk scraped with metal putty knife

    The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

  3. Clean the Surfaces

    Clean the surfaces thoroughly with a clean cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. The cleaner the area, the easier it will be for the new caulk to bond properly. Let the surfaces dry completely before applying new caulk. 

    Rubbing alcohol rubbed over old caulk with white cloth

    The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

Non-Chemical Methods

Caulk Removal Tool

Several manufacturers make caulk removal tools, which sometimes come in kits that include tools for applying and smoothing new caulk. The better tools are made of plastic or polished steel that won't scratch surfaces and have angles and blades designed to scrape caulk out of narrow crevices and corners. One excellent tool from Hyde has a corner scraper blade that is reversible and replaceable to ensure you always have a sharp tool.

Caulk removal tools can be used by themselves, but they are also great as the second step after applying chemical caulk remover.

Razor Scraper

Another tool that works well is a good old-fashioned razor scraper. The trick here is to use a very sharp blade and to make sure the blade edge is flat on the surface to prevent scratching. A razor is ideal for getting behind thin smears of old caulk.

In general, it is best to scrape behind both side edges of the caulk bead to separate it from the surface, then try to peel it off in long strips. To prevent scratching, be careful not to let the corners of the blade contact the surface. Keep the tool at a low angle—almost flat to the surface—at all times. Acrylic and fiberglass surfaces are especially susceptible to scratching.