Vermicomposting is the technical name for what has become known as worm composting—the process of using various species of earthworms to digest and convert organic material into useable garden compost. Commercial vermicomposting bins are a convenient way to start turning your food scraps into compost for the garden, but there can be two problems with ready-made bins. They are expensive and can cost upward of $100 or more in many retail outlets. While they do work well, most gardeners would rather spend their money on plants.
Most commercial bins are also large creating a space issue. Often, the most convenient place to store a worm bin is inside a kitchen cabinet. It is out of sight but still in a convenient spot to dump veggie and fruit scraps. Kitchen cabinet space is usually at a premium and a large, tub-type bin takes up too much valuable space.
The solution to both the financial and space issues is to make your own worm bin. With just three plastic five-gallon buckets from your local home improvement store and a little time, you can start vermicomposting..
How Vermicomposting Bins Work
Vermicomposting bins are structured so that the worms will start out with bedding and food on one level. As that level gets digested and turned into vermicompost, you start adding food and bedding to the next level. The worms instinctively migrate up into that level, leaving behind finished vermicompost for you to use in your garden. You simply keep switching back and forth between the two buckets, emptying finished compost then adding fresh food and bedding as the worms break it down for you.
The third bucket forms the bottom of the stack and is used to catch any moisture created as a byproduct from the other two bins. You can harvest this "vermicompost tea" from the lowest bucket and use it to fertilize your plants.
|Working Time||30 minutes (to make the system)|
|Total Time||3 to 6 months (to produce finished compost)|
|Material Cost||$40 to $50 (including purchased worms)|
What You'll Need
- Drill with 3/16- and 1/8-inch twist bits
- 3 Plastic buckets (5-gallon size is best)
- 1 Bucket lid
- Shredded newspaper or cardboard
- 250 to 500 Red wiggler composting worms
Drill Bottom Holes
In two of the buckets, drill 3/16-inch holes in the bottom, about 1 inch apart. Do not drill holes in the third bucket.
Drill Side Holes
Drill 1/8-inch-diameter holes about one inch apart through the lid over the entire surface. This will provide added aeration that will help break down the contents quickly.
Prepare the Lid
Drill a large number of 1/8-inch-diameter holes through the lid. This will provide added aeration that will help break down the contents quickly.
Assemble the Vermicomposting Bin
Stack one of the bins that has holes in the bottom inside the bucket without holes. Add 3 to 4 inches of moistened shredded newspaper or cardboard to this bucket, then add the worms. You can also add some food scraps at this time.
Cover the Bin
Just put the lid on the bin and let the worms do their thing. Add food as often as you need to—whenever the contents have been mostly digested.
Add the Third Bucket
Once the contents of this layer have been partially digested by the worms, stack the next bucket with holes onto the bin, adding fresh bedding and food to the new bucket and placing the lid on top. The worms will start migrating up to the top bucket for fresh food and bedding.
The time it takes for the worms to break down the contents of the first bucket of bedding and scraps will depend on the number of worms and the quantity and type of organic material you put inside, but it generally takes three to six months to create a full bucket of compost ready for garden use. This might seem like a long time, but it can be considerably faster than passive composting in an open compost bin.
As the bottom bucket fills with liquid, this "compost tea" can be used to feed plants. Empty the "tea" often, as it can begin to smell if allowed to remain too long.
Harvest the Compost
As soon as most of the worms migrate up into the upper bucket, the contents of the underlying bucket can be harvested. The vermicompost is a versatile material that makes a great food or soil amendment for virtually all plants.
Repeat the Process
Keep repeating the process as the lower bucket gets full, is emptied of its compost, and is moved to the top of the stack. Once established, your vermicomposting system can handle virtually all the organic non-animal refuse your house produces.
Tips for Vermicomposting
This is a very simple system, but there are some things to keep in mind:
- Don't let the contents get too wet. If they do, there are a number of ways to fix a wet worm bin, such as adding more fresh bedding.
- Don't let the contents dry out, either. This is death for worms. The contents of the bin should feel as moist as a wrung-out sponge.
- It is a good idea to add a few handfuls of the original vermicompost to the new bucket as you stack it on top. This will introduce a few worms—and maybe eggs—to the new bin, as well as other beneficial microorganisms to help with the decomposition process.
- Maintain several worm bins for maximum composting capacity. Line them up in your basement or mudroom, and you'll always be able to compost your kitchen scraps.
- Avoid putting animal materials (meat, eggs, etc.) into a vermicomposting bin. While worms can and do break down animal wastes, it can take too long for the process to occur, allowing bacteria and other pathogens to flourish.