How to Install a Direct-to-Stud Tub or Shower Surround

A DIY project on a bathroom's fiberglass bathtub surround
BanksPhotos / Getty Images
  • 01 of 06

    Introduction

    An increasingly popular option for the alcove enclosures for bathtubs and showers is a surround kit that uses acrylic or fiberglass panels. This type of kit is cheaper and easier to install than ceramic tile wall enclosures and is remarkably easy to maintain. There are two types of installation for tub/shower surround kits: direct-to-studs that anchor to framing, and adhesive-type kits that use adhesives to stick the panels onto the bathroom walls. Kits designs for direct-to-stud scenarios  (described here) are most often used for new construction or major remodeling jobs. Adhesive types, on the other hand, are designed for retrofit application to existing wall surfaces, using construction adhesives. 

    Types of Surround Kits

    Some surround kits are designed for a specific shower base or tub, while others can be retrofit to any existing tub of appropriate size. Tub and shower surround kits can come as a single complete unit, but these are usually used for new construction. Most tub and shower surround installed for remodeling applications come in three or five pieces to make the installation in tight spaces easier.

    The surround kits designed for attachment to studs are usually made of fiberglass or acrylic material that is quite sturdy, sometimes featuring built-in molded shelving. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before installing any tub or shower surround, because they will specify the way that the manufacturer wants it installed. You may void the warranty if it isn’t done properly.

    When buying a direct-to-stud surround, make sure that you get the right size for the width of tub or shower you have. This type of surround cannot be trimmed to fit in the same way that is possible with adhesive-type surrounds. 

    Tools and Supplies You Will Need

    • Tub or shower surround kit
    • Drill 
    • Hammer
    • Hole saws
    • Nails or screws
    • Carpenter's level
    • Marker
    • Tape measure
    • Caulk gun
    • Tub-and-tile caulk
    • Roofing nails or utility screws
    Continue to 2 of 6 below.
  • 02 of 06

    Prepare the Walls

    Direct-to-stud surrounds are great for complete bathroom remodels where all walls are usually removed down to the studs. You can first install a tub or a shower base, then finish the wall with the surround kit. If you aren't starting from scratch this way, you can set the panels on the lip of the tub, starting with the back, then level the panel and draw a line where the top of the flange will sit. Then, just cut out this area of drywall.

    These tub and shower surrounds have top, bottom, and side flanges that are screwed or nailed to the wall studs. Installation starts by stripping the walls down to the studs around where the surround will sit. Often, it is easier to cut out a larger area of drywall than what is needed for the surround, because this makes it easier to anchor the flanges. You can then install drywall so it butts up to the surround over the flanges.

    When removing drywall, make sure to remove all nails or screws, and check to make sure the studs lie in a flat plane. If necessary, you may need to shim out studs if they are uneven or bowed. This will ensure that the surround panels will lie flat against the walls. 

    • Note: Make sure the installation is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. If an adhesive is also required on the wall, or if silicone is recommended between the back and side walls, then be sure follow this procedure.
    Continue to 3 of 6 below.
  • 03 of 06

    Start With the Back Wall Panel

    Install the back wall panel first (some kits have one back panel, others have two). Position the back surround panel on the tub and level it. Have someone help hold it in place while you check to see how it fits against the walls and the edge of the tub or shower base. Once it is oriented properly, drill pilot holes through the top, bottom and side flanges where the panel meets the center of the studs, and use nails or screws to secure it to the wall. Short roofing nails with large heads work well for this. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the nailing interval. 

    Continue to 4 of 6 below.
  • 04 of 06

    Install the First Side Wall Panel

    Next, install the side wall without the plumbing fixtures on it. (This side is done first because no holes are required and it is easy to install.) Position the panel against the side wall, and lock it in place where it adjoins the back panel. Level the panel and make sure it sits flush against the lip of the tub or shower pan. Drill pilot holes in the panel flanges where they meet the studs, and screw or nail the panel to the wall.

    Continue to 5 of 6 below.
  • 05 of 06

    Prepare the Last Side Wall Panel

    Before installing the last panel, it will have to be drilled for the tub or shower valve and maybe the tub spout. Take measurements off of the back wall to the center of the valve and off of the tub or shower base to the center of the valve. Transfer these measurements to the tub surround panel. Measure very carefully, as there is no fix if you drill the holes incorrectly. 

    Drill holes in the surround panel with a drill and hole saw. For the faucet valve hole, select a hole saw bit that is large enough to accommodate the trim screws as well as the shower valve  (the faucet escutcheon plate will cover the slightly larger hole). For the spout hole, choose a hole saw just slightly bigger than the stub-out pipe.

    • Tip: When drilling the holes, it helps to set the drill to rotate in reverse, since this prevents the teeth of the hole saw from ripping the acrylic panel. The pilot bit will help keep the hole bit in place while the hole is drilled.
    Continue to 6 of 6 below.
  • 06 of 06

    Install the Last Surround Panel

    Once all of the holes are drilled in the last surround panel, check to make sure they line up with the plumbing stub-outs before locking it in place permanently. If the measurements were slightly off, make small adjustments until the holes line up correctly. Then lock the panel into the back wall and level it up. Screw or nail the panel's flanges to the studs after drilling pilot holes.

    Finish by completing any wall patching that is necessary, then install and caulk the plumbing handles, escutcheons, and trim. If the directions say so, also caulk the seams between panels, and along the shower base or edge of the tub.