How to Paint Faux Terra Cotta Flooring on Concrete

1. Paint the Base Coat

   Apply gray enamel paint to the entire floor using a roller. This will be the canvas on which you will make your tiles. Apply a second coat, if necessary, to ensure consistent coverage and color. Allow the paint to dry overnight or as directed by the manufacturer.

2. Choose a Tile and Grout Line Size

   Determine how big you would like your tiles to be. Standard sizes are 12 x 12 inches or 16 x 16 inches, but you can choose any size you like since you will be making them yourself. You can make all of the tiles the same size or use a combination of tile sizes.

   Decide how wide your grout joints between the tiles will be. Grout joints for real terra cotta floor tiles often are 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch wide, but yours can be any size you like. 

   Tip

   It's best to keep the tile stamps smaller than 18 by 18 inches. Any larger, and they can become difficult to stamp.

3. Create Layout Lines

   Measure and mark the center of each wall of the room. Using a chalk line reel, snap two perpendicular chalk lines that intersect at the center of the floor. Using your tile and grout dimensions, chalk the entire tile layout, starting at the floor's center. Make sure the tiles will fit the space with a pleasing pattern. If you don't like the layout or want to change the final design, you can snap new chalk lines to change it.

   What Is a Chalk Line?

   A chalk line (also called a “chalk reel” or “chalk box”) is a hand tool that has a reel of chalked string inside it. The chalk-coated string is reeled out across the surface and pulled tautly. Once the string is in the correct position, it is plucked, or "snapped," making a chalk line on the surface. 

4. Make the Tile Stamps

   Draw the shape of the tile you want onto a piece of foam rubber, using a ruler and pencil. Cut out the shape from the foam with a utility knife and T-square. 

   Place the foam pieces onto a flat cardboard sheet and trace them with a pencil. Cut along the traced lines. Glue each cardboard piece to the back of each matching foam piece using contact spray adhesive. The cardboard serves as a backing for the foam stamps.

5. Mix the Tile Paint

   Select two to four tile paint colors to create custom coloring for your tiles. The most common options for terra cotta are burnt orange and earthy browns, contrasted by bright blues or reds. Pour each paint color into a separate squeeze bottle so that you can create veined swirls that will mimic natural features.

   Squirt the different colors onto a piece of cardboard, covering an area slightly larger than a single tile. Wearing rubber gloves, gently swirl the paint with your fingers, so the colors mix but do not completely blend into one color. 

6. Stamp the Tiles

   You will start at the center of your chalk-line layout. Dab one of the foam stamps lightly into the paint, so the foam surface is completely covered with color. Wipe off excess paint from the sides of the stamp using a cloth or newspaper. Press the tile down onto the floor firmly, then remove it by pulling it straight up, creating a clean tile shape bordered by the chalk lines. 

   Repeat the stamping process, placing the tiles in straight lines and spacing each tile according to your desired grout joint width. The void between each tile stamp will look like a grout joint. A single dip in the paint should allow you to stamp several tiles before you have to reload the stamp with paint. 

   If any of the tiles look blotchy, you can stamp them a second or third time as needed. Use a clean rag to wipe up any excess paint that drips or smears outside the tile edges. Let the paint cure fully, as directed by the manufacturer. 

7. Seal the Floor

   Apply a quality polyurethane (make sure it is compatible with your paint) to create a protective finish over the entire floor. You can apply polyurethane with a roller (or a standard 5-inch paintbrush, foam brush, or a painting pad). Apply two or three coats, following the manufacturer's directions for application, preparation between coats (as applicable), and drying times.

How to Keep Paint Looking Fresh

Polyurethane should be reapplied every three to five years, depending on the amount of use your floor gets. Ideally, you want to re-coat it before the flooring starts to look worn or dingy from lots of foot traffic. A new coat of polyurethane adds another layer of protection to your floors, extending the life of the floors for another three to five years. Re-coating prevents you from ever having to refinish your floors again fully. Don't wait until it is too late and "wear" begins to show. At that point, you might need to redo the floors with the tile stamps (and might need to redo most or all of the floor) so that the age of the paint matches the rest of the flooring.

When to Call a Professional

This project is a big job. It is not recommended for beginners or most people with intermediate experience because it requires precision, trial and error, and patience. If these qualities do not match your approach to tasks at home, call a professional for an estimate. You might find that laying tiles might be a little pricier but well worth it to you in time saved and frustration averted. For others, this project can be a fun challenge, and the results are gratifying.