Poinsettia Plant Profile

a poinsettia plant on a coffee table

The Spruce / Leticia Almeida

Poinsettia plants (Euphorbia pulcherrima) remain one of the most popular holiday flowers. The familiar red blooms have been joined by even flashier colors. Actually, they are not flowers but modified leaves called bracts. The bright bracts are designed to attract insects to the tiny yellow flowers in their centers. Hybridizers have expanded the range of colors from the familiar red to pastel yellow and vibrant bicolors. Because poinsettias have been forced into bloom, they need some extra care to keep them in bloom throughout the holidays. While it may be easier to buy new plants each year, it is possible to get them to rebloom the next season.

Botanical Name Euphorbia pulcherrima
Common Name Poinsettia
Plant Type Perennial shrub
Mature Size Two feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10, 11, and 12
Native Area Tropical forests of Mexico
overhead of poinsettias
The Spruce / Leticia Almeida
red poinsettia bracts
The Spruce / Leticia Almeida

How to Grow Poinsettia

You can keep your poinsettia healthy and vigorous throughout the holiday season with the right care. Give them enough sun, warmth, and water and your poinsettia will provide perfect seasonal color. If you want to save your poinsettia and bring it to bloom again next year, you can follow the repotting and reblooming procedure.


Place the poinsettia near a sunny window. South-, east- or west-facing windows are preferable to a north-facing window. Poinsettias are tropicals and will appreciate as much direct sunlight as you can provide.


A loose, well-draining peat-based potting soil is best for your poinsettia.


Water the plant whenever the surface feels dry to the touch. Water until it drains out the bottom, but do not let the plant sit in water. Wilting is a common cause of leaf drop. A wilted plant can be revived and salvaged, but it will take another season to improve its appearance.


Make sure the container has a hole in the bottom. Water in a sink, and let the excess water drain completely. If the pot is covered by the typical foil wrapping, remove the foil to allow the water to drain. If the plant stands in water, the roots will rot.

Temperature and Humidity

To keep the poinsettia in bloom as long as possible, maintain a temperature of 65 to 75 F during the day. Dropping the temperature to about 60 F at night will not hurt the plant. However, cold drafts, allowing the leaves to touch a cold window, or more importantly, lack of decent light, can injure the leaves and cause premature leaf drop. If you've ever seen a leggy poinsettia in bloom, with only a couple of sad looking leaves hanging on, it was probably exposed to temperatures that were too cool or to extreme shifts in temperature.

Lack of humidity during dry seasons, in particular, winter, is an ongoing houseplant problem. If your home tends to be dry and your poinsettia is in direct light, you will find yourself watering more frequently, but never water every day.


Do not fertilize poinsettias during the blooming period. When keeping the plant through the year, begin fertilizing in the spring at half strength when there's no growth—not until then. Feed every three to four weeks.

Potting and Repotting

If you wish to keep your poinsettia through more than one season and force reblooming, follow these steps. Getting a poinsettia to rebloom is not an easy process, so don't be disheartened if you don't have success your first try.

  • January to March: Keep watering the poinsettia whenever the surface is dry.
  • April: Starting April 1, gradually decrease water, allowing the soil to get dry between waterings. Be careful that the stem does not begin to shrivel. This is a sign the plant is too stressed and is dying. In a week or two, when the plant has acclimated to this drying process, move it to a cool spot, such as the basement or a heated garage. You want to keep it at about 60 F. Spring is a time to prune stems back four to six inches, which should promote new growth.
  • May: In mid-May, cut the stems back to about four inches and repot in a slightly larger container, with new potting soil. Water it well. Place the newly potted plant back into the brightest window you have and once again keep it at a temperature of 65 to 75 F. Continue watering whenever the surface of the soil feels dry. Watch for new growth. Once new growth appears, begin fertilizing every two weeks with a complete fertilizer. Follow fertilizer label recommendations.
  • June: Move the poinsettia outside, pot and all. Keep it in a partially shaded location and maintain your watering and fertilizing schedule.
  • July: In early July, pinch back each stem by about one inch. This is to encourage a stout, well-branched plant. If left unpinched, the poinsettia will grow tall and spindly.
  • August: By mid-August, the stems should have branched and leafed out. Once again, pinch or cut the new stems, leaving three to four leaves on each shoot. Bring the plant back indoors and into your brightest window. Continue watering and fertilizing.
  • September: Continue regular watering and fertilizing. Make sure the temperature stays above 65 F.
  • October: Poinsettias are short-day plants, meaning their bud set is affected by the length of daylight. To rebloom, poinsettias need about 10 weeks with 12 hours or less of sunlight per day. You will have to artificially create these conditions and it's crucial that you be diligent. Beginning October 1, keep your plant in complete darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. Any exposure to light will delay blooming. Use an opaque box or material to block out light. Many people place their plants in a closet, but if the light gets in through the cracks or if you open and use the closet, it will affect the bud set. Move the plant back to the sunny window during the daytime and continue watering and fertilizing.
  • November: Around the last week of November, you can stop the darkness treatment and allow the plant to remain in the window. You should see flower buds at this point.
  • December: Stop fertilizing about December 15. Keep watering and treat your plant the way you did when you first brought it home in bloom. If all has gone well, it should be back in bloom and ready to begin the process all over again.

Varieties of Poinsettias

Besides the traditional red, you will find different colors to enjoy, including cream, yellow, and pink. Note that some fancy colors, such as blue, are produced using dyes and the plant won't bloom again with the same color of bracts. Look for these varieties:

  • 'Tri-Color' has bracts in red, white, and pink.
  • 'Plum Pudding' is a lovely purple color.
  • 'Prestige Maroon' is a deep maroon.
  • 'Lemon Drop' has yellow bracts.
  • 'Jingle Bells' has red bracts dotted with pink.
a prestige maroon poinsettia
The Spruce / Leticia Almeida 

Toxicity of Poinsettias

For years, poinsettias have had the bad reputation of being poisonous. They certainly are not meant to be eaten by humans, pets, or livestock and ingesting poinsettias would probably cause some stomach upset, as would eating almost any houseplant. However, poinsettias have undergone extensive testing and there is no evidence that they are toxic or unsafe to have in the house. They are also safe to put into the compost.

A more likely problem to watch out for is contact dermatitis. Euphorbias, the plant family that includes poinsettias, exude a milky sap when broken. Think of milkweed, another common Euphorbia. Many people are sensitive to this sap, which can cause an itchy rash. Be especially careful not to rub your eyes after touching the plants. To be safe, wash your hands after handling a poinsettia plant and try to avoid pinching or pruning them with your hands.