How to Repaint and Refinish a Table Top

Apply the Stripper

Sanding is typically used for varnish and stain removal methods. In this example, sanding wasn't used because the varnish was thick, and sanding would have removed too much wood and made the table top look uneven or imperfect. Sanding also creates a ton of dust and can make a mess.

If you have the time to let it sit, an environmentally-friendly stripper works well on stubborn varnish surfaces without damaging the wood. 

Apply a very thick layer of a stripper. Follow the manufacturer's directions, but most recommend a thick layer.

Cover It With Plastic

Since this stripper takes a long time to work, the best way to ensure it has time to do its job is to wrap the table top in plastic wrap. This wrapping keeps the stripper wet enough long enough to lift thick layers of varnish that are otherwise tricky to remove. 

Let the first coat sit under the plastic wrap for about 36 hours until the varnish separates from the wood. 

Wait Until the Varnish Separates

Once the varnish starts separating, it bunches together, looking worm-like or streaky. Wait until most of the table looks like this to save yourself an unnecessary extra step of scraping off and reapplying the stripper. 

Scrape Away the Finish

Gently scrape away the top finish with a metal putty knife. If you're using an environmentally friendly stripper, you might still have patches left on the top coat. Also, the first coat usually does not remove or lift any of the stain out of the wood. 

Reapply the Stripper as Needed

Repeat the entire process of applying stripper, covering with plastic, and scraping the surface, as needed, until the whole top coat has been removed.

Buff With Steel Wool

Coat the table with a heavy-duty paint and stain remover to remove the wood stain. Let this sit overnight to let the product lift a lot of the color out of the wood.

Rub the wood with mineral spirits to clean the table and buff away the majority of the stain. The longer the stripper had been sitting, the more it will lift the stain. 

In this example, steel wool was used. It is more gentle than sandpaper but abrasive enough to scrub away at a stubborn stain color well embedded into the wood. 

Sand Out Remaining Stain

Once you remove the majority of the stain, move to sandpaper. The sandpaper will smooth the finish, remove more of the old stain, and prep the wood for restaining.

Start with 100-grit sandpaper, then switch to 150-grit and finally 220-grit. In this example, it was hand-sanded. You can use an orbital sander, but be gentle so that you do not dent, nick, or misshape the wood. 

Prep for Stain, Sealant, or Paint

Clean off any dust using a tack cloth to ensure the surface is ready for staining. Any dust or debris will get stuck in the stain.

Apply the Desired Finish

Depending on the finish you select, follow the instructions on the can for your desired finish—be it stain, paint, or varnish. You can skip stain altogether and go right to a protective top coat. In this example, a thin coat of a natural teak stain was used. 

Sand Between Coats of Stain Then Apply Top Coat

If staining, be sure to let the stain dry completely. In this example, the stain sat for 24 hours and then was lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper to ensure a smooth surface. Don't skip this step if you want your table to look as smooth as possible. 

Once staining is complete, apply a protective top coat. The table in the example got a few coats of varnish to create a water-resistant glass-like finish suitable for outdoor use. Remember, lightly coat the table and give it a light sanding in between coats. Let the final coat cure entirely before using the table top.