How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall

By
Bob Formisano
Bob Formisano
Bob Formisano is a licensed architect and builder with nearly 40 years of experience building new homes and restoring older homes. One of his specialties is repairing old systems dating back to the 1920s, including galvanized water pipes, knob-and-tube wiring, and more. His home repair articles for The Spruce span more than 10 years.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
Updated on 05/26/22
Fact checked by Alexandra Kay
measuring a hole in drywall

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 1 - 4 hrs
  • Total Time: 1 - 2 days
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $50

Repairing large holes in drywall—anything over six inches—is different from fixing a small hole in drywall. Small holes can be patched over with drywall tape or a self-adhesive drywall patch, but large holes need a more rigid material to span over the larger opening.

The simplest solution is also the best: cutting a patch from another piece of drywall and securing it with wood backing strips and drywall screws. Once the patch is in place, tape and "mud" (apply joint compound) over the seams, just like when installing new drywall. If you finish the patch carefully, it will not be visible. 

tools for repairing drywall
​The Spruce / Margot Cavin 

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What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Framing square
  • Pencil
  • Drywall saw
  • Tape measure
  • Wood saw
  • Drill with screwdriver bit
  • Utility knife
  • 6 inch Drywall knife
  • 150-grit Sanding sponge
  • Rag
  • Paintbrush

Materials

  • Scrap lumber or plywood strips, at least 3 inches wide
  • Piece of drywall (thickness must match drywall in repair area)
  • 1 1/4 inch Coarse-thread drywall screws
  • Self-adhesive mesh drywall joint tape
  • Drywall joint compound
  • Primer
  • Paint

Instructions

2:31

Watch Now: How to Repair a Large Hole in Drywall

  1. Prepare the Opening

    Trim the edges of the hole to create straight sides and a square or rectangular overall shape. Use a framing square and a pencil to mark cutting lines on the drywall. Then cut along the lines with a drywall saw. 

    Warning

    Make sure there is no wiring or plumbing behind the drywall surface before cutting by looking through the hole with a flashlight.

    preparing the opening
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin 

  2. Install the Backing Strips

    Cut two pieces of lumber or plywood a few inches longer than the long sides of the hole (if it's a rectangle). Place one piece into the hole, parallel to one of the long sides, so the strip is centered over the drywall edge (half is behind the drywall and half is exposed).

    Secure the strip with drywall screws driven through the drywall and into the strip. Keep the screws about 1 inch from the drywall edge, and space them about 6 inches apart. Repeat the same process to install the other backing strip along the opposite edge of the hole.

    Tip

    If the hole is more than 10 inches wide, use the method above to frame in the entire opening with lumber strips.

    installing backing strips
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  3. Install the Drywall Patch

    Cut a piece of drywall to fit the hole. It doesn't have to be a snug fit, but the seams should be not more than about 1/8 inch wide. Position the patch over the hole and secure it to the backing strips with screws. Keep the screws about 1 inch from the edges of the patch and space them 6 inches apart. 

    Tip

    The patch must be the same thickness as the existing drywall; typically, this is 1/2 inch. 

    installing drywall patch
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  4. Tape the Seams

    Cut strips to length of drywall joint tape using a utility knife. Cover each seam with a strip of joint tape. Overlap the tape strips at the corners. Make sure the tape lies flat, with no wrinkles or bulges. 

    taping seams
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  5. Mud the Seams

    Cover the drywall tape with a thin layer of drywall joint compound, using a 6-inch drywall knife. You should be able to see the mesh through the compound. Let the compound dry. Then scrape the surface with the knife to remove any burrs or clumps.

    Apply another thin layer of compound, extending it beyond the edges of the first layer. Use the knife to feather the edges of the wet compound over the surrounding drywall so it gradually tapers to nothing. Let the second layer dry. Then scrape again. Add a third layer. Let the third layer dry. 

    putting mud on the seams
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin 

  6. Sand the Mud

    Sand the dried compound with a sanding sponge to smooth the surface. Be careful not to oversand, which would cause the mesh tape to show through.

    Tip

    If preferred, wet-sand with a wet-sanding sponge to keep down the amount of dust. Clean off all sanding dust with a dry rag. 

    sanding down the patch
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin

  7. Prime and Paint the Patch

    Cover the entire patch area with a coat of primer, using a paintbrush. Let the primer dry. Apply two or more coats of paint to match the surrounding area, as needed.

    Alternatively, if the wall or ceiling could use a new paint job, this is a great time to paint the whole thing, which will further help hide the patch. Sometimes new paint, even if it is the same color, will appear more vibrant than the existing paint, which may have faded over time.

    painting the finished drywall
    ​The Spruce / Margot Cavin