Repairing a Single-Handle Disk Faucet

Single-handle disk faucet being replaced by hand

The Spruce / Kevin Norris

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 30 mins - 1 hr
  • Total Time: 30 mins - 1 hr
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $5 to $20

Repairing a leaky bathroom or kitchen faucet is generally not a hard job, but it is sometimes complicated by the fact that there are so many different faucet designs, each with different types of parts and requiring different repair methods. Many single-handle faucets use some form of interior ball or cartridge; with most of these, repair is a fairly simple matter of replacing the faucet cartridge or replacing the ball or its parts.

A disk faucet, however, uses a different design that requires a different repair procedure.

Identifying a Disk Faucet

From the outside, the disk, cartridge, and ball faucets look similar. Like most cartridge or ball faucets, a disk faucet usually has a single handle (though there are some double-handle models). But while ball faucets have a handle that rotates freely in all directions, a ceramic disk faucet has a distinctive operating motion that includes a smooth forward-back action, along with a left-right rotation. This is similar to the way standard cartridge faucets move, but you'll notice that a ceramic disk faucet has a shorter, wider body, not the upright cylindrical shape common to cartridge faucets.

Inside the faucet body, a disk faucet uses a special type of sealed cartridge with two closely fitting ceramic disks, one fixed, the other moveable. Moving the handle slides the disks around within their cartridge, aligning the holes in various ways to change the ratio of hot and cold water getting through the disks to the faucet's mixing chamber. It is a very dependable design that requires less attention than standard ball-type or cartridge faucets.

Before You Begin

In this project, we describe how to disassemble and clean the parts of a typical single-handle ceramic disk faucet. In many cases, a simple cleaning of the seals and water ports will fix a faucet that is leaking. Sometimes, though, a simple cleaning will fail to fix the leaky faucet. In this case, the problem may be seals that are damaged or that have lost their resiliency.

Unlike other faucets, where seals, springs, and other parts are often offered in repair kits specified for particular faucet models, the seals for most ceramic disk faucets are not sold this way. Nor will you find suitable seals in the universal kits that offer a wide selection of washers, seals, and O-rings. If you find that the seals on your ceramic disk cartridge are cracked or badly worn, the fix is generally to just buy a new cartridge and install it.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Allen (hex) wrench
  • Channel-type pliers or pipe wrench
  • Screwdriver
  • Utility knife
  • Old toothbrush or small nylon brush


  • Replacement disk cartridge (if needed)
  • New O-ring for faucet body
  • Heatproof silicone plumber's grease


Materials and tools to repair a single-handle disk faucet

The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  1. Turn off the Water

    The first step in faucet repair is to locate the hot and cold fixture shutoff valves and turn them off. The shutoffs are usually found directly under the sink, at the point where the water supply pipes are connected to the flexible water supply tubes leading up to the faucet tailpieces. Some valves have knurled knobs that are rotated clockwise to shut off the water, while others are lever-type valves with handles that rotate one-quarter turn to shut them off.

    If your faucet does not have fixture shutoff valves, then you'll need to shut off the water supply to the entire house at a branch valve or at the main shutoff valve.

    Once the water is shut off, open the faucet to release pressure and let the water drain out.

    Water supply turned off with shutoff valve under sink

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  2. Remove the Faucet Handle

    Detach the faucet handle from the faucet body and cartridge. The mounting screw is often concealed under a plastic or metal cap that covers the top of the faucet body, as shown here. If your faucet does not have a plastic cap, the handle may be attached by a hex screw on the side, front, or rear of the handle. Use a Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench to remove the mounting screw, then gently pull or pry the handle off.

    Faucet handle removed from body and cartridge with screwdriver

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  3. Remove the Disc Cartridge

    With the handle removed the disk cartridge is now exposed and can be removed. Some styles have screws or a mounting ring that hold the disk cartridge in place. If you have this style, remove the screw or ring that secures the cartridge before lifting the cartridge out. If the cartridge is sticky, hold the stem with pliers to gently tug it out.

    With the cartridge removed, check it for damage. If it is cracked or otherwise damaged, it will need to be replaced. If you have to replace a cartridge, it’s a good idea to bring the old one along to the hardware store, as it makes finding a replacement much easier.

    Disc cartridge removed from faucet body with wrench

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  4. Remove the Seals and Clean the Ports

    The next steps may vary slightly, depending on the faucet's model and manufacturer. In most cases, disk faucets leak because rubber seals in the bottom of the ceramic disk get damaged or layered with grit or mineral deposits.

    Inspect the bottom of the cartridge, and remove the rubber seals from the water inlet ports using a small screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the seals. Use a soft nylon brush (an old toothbrush works well) to gently clean the rubber seals.

    Also, clean the ports at the bottom of the cartridge. If the ports have a substantial build-up of calcium, a product such as Lime-A-Way may help dissolve the deposits.


    Some faucets have sealed disk cartridges that don't allow you to remove the seals. With these, simply buy an entirely new cartridge and install it. Or, if the seals are cracked or badly damaged, it's usually best to just buy and install an entirely new cartridge, which generally costs no more than $10 to $20. Replacement seals can be hard to find, and it's usually not worth the effort, considering that the entire cartridge is quite affordable.

    Rubber seals removed from water inlet ports for cleaning

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  5. Replace the Spout O-Ring

    Remove the O-ring from the faucet body neck. Coat a new O-ring with a light layer of silicone plumber's grease and install it by setting it into the groove on the faucet body.

    Silicone plumber's grease coating new O-ring on faucet body

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  6. Reassemble the Faucet

    Insert the cleaned rubber seals back into their seal seats. Place the disk cartridge back into the faucet body, aligning the tabs on the cartridge with the notches in the faucet body. If there is a mounting screw or cap, reinstall it.

    Attach the handle, then replace the decorative cap (if present).

    Disk cartridge inserted into faucet body

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  7. Restore the Water Supply

    Set the faucet handle to the center open position, then turn the water supply back on gradually. When air stops sputtering out of the faucet, move the handle to the closed position. Check to make sure the faucet is not leaking.

    Water supply turned on under sink

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris