Sewing an Invisible Zipper - Step by Step Photo Enhanced Instructions

  • 01 of 06

    Prepare to Install an Invisible Zipper

    A photo showing how to press the zipper tape flat to sew in an invisible zipper.
    Press the Zipper Tape Flat. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to

    An invisible zipper is a zipper that is hidden within a seam. The only part of the zipper that is seen is a slender zipper pull. An invisible zipper is not sewn in the same manner that regular zippers are sewn in. With an invisible zipper, there is no worry about straight topstitching on the finished zipper.

    • An invisible zipper that is a close match to the fabric you are using.
    • An iron and ironing board
    • The item the zipper will be sewn into without the seam being sewn.
    • An Invisible (or Concealed)...MORE Zipper Foot for your sewing machine

    Read the instructions that accompany your invisible zipper and zipper foot.

    Prepare the Zipper

    • Your first step is to open the zipper.
    • Thoroughly press the zipper tape by laying the open zipper, with the zipper pull side down on the ironing board.
    • Use the point of the zipper to get under the coils and iron the zipper tape flat.
    • If needed -- Press the fabric where the zipper will be sewn into the seam.
    Continue to 2 of 6 below.
  • 02 of 06

    The First Side

    A photo showing the details of preparing the first side of an invisible zipper.
    Preparing to Sew the First Side of an Invisible Zipper. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to

    With the zipper still open and the zipper tape flat;

    • Lay the zipper face down (zipper pull side down) on the right side of the fabric.
    • Bring the zipper tape into the area where you will be sewing in the zipper.
    • Measure the seam allowance from the edge of the fabric to the zipper coil. Your goal is for the seam allowance to stay consistent with the pattern and the length of the zipper.
    • Pin the zipper tape in place. (Remove the pins as you sew do not sew over the pins!)If you are not comfortable...MORE removing pins as you sew, take the time to hand baste the zipper tape into position.
    Continue to 3 of 6 below.
  • 03 of 06

    Sewing the Invisible Zipper

    A close up photo of sewing an invisible zipper with an invisible zipper foot
    At the Sewing Machine, Sewing an Invisible Zipper. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to
    • Set up your sewing machine with your invisible or concealed zipper foot.
    • Using the hand wheel (parts of a sewing machine) gently bring the sewing machine needle down to confirm that your needle will clear the presser foot.
    • Place the zipper coil under the zipper foot so that the stitching will be right next to the zipper coil on the zipper tape.
    • Sew the entire length of the zipper in place, removing he pins as you come to them, without sewing over them.
    Continue to 4 of 6 below.
  • 04 of 06

    The Second Side of the Invisible

    A photo showing how to prepare to sew the last side of an invisible zipper
    Preparing the Second Side of the Invisible Zipper. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to
    • Lay the zipper, pull side down) on the right side of the fabric edge that will create the finished seam.
    • Measure and pin in place just as you did for the first side of the zipper.
    • Return to the sewing machine and sew in the second side of the zipper tape, the same way you did the first side.

    Note: If you have a seam that will intersect the seam that holds the invisible zipper, be sure to read, Matching Seams when Sewing in an Invisible Zipper

    Continue to 5 of 6 below.
  • 05 of 06

    Sewing the Remaining Seam

    a photo showing how to line up the seam at the bottom of an invisible zipper
    Sewing the Remaining Seam After Sewing an Invisible Zipper. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed t
    • Close the zipper.
    • Match the stitching of sewn sides of the zipper, the same way you would line up seams to have a seam line match. (How to Match Seams and Seam Lines When Sewing)
    • Pin or baste the matched seams in place.
    • Place the regular zipper foot on your sewing machine.
    • Place the fabric under the presser foot and align the needle with the stitching at the bottom of the invisible zipper.
    • Sew the seam line until you clear the invisible zipper.
    • Place a regular foot on your sewing machine and finish...MORE the seam.
    Continue to 6 of 6 below.
  • 06 of 06

    Sew a Seam Finish

    A photo showing a zig zag seam finish on the seam allowance of an invisible zipper
    A Zigzag Seam Finish Being Sewn on the Edge of the Seam Allowance. Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to
    • Sew a seam finish on the seam allowances of the entire seam, under the zipper and below the zipper, to prevent fraying threads that can jam in a zipper and weaken your seam. (Choosing a Seam Finish)