This scarf is part of a coordinating set of accessories that also includes a headband, hat and fingerless gloves. The scarf is an easy project you can make using only two different crochet stitches: single crochet and chain stitch.
Crochet Skill Level: Beginner
- Worsted Weight Yarn: I crocheted two samples of this scarf. Both of my sample scarves were crocheted using Red Heart Super Saver, an acrylic yarn. I used about 3 1/4 ounces / 91 grams of yarn to crochet the longer of my sample scarves, and just a bit less to crochet the shorter one. I tried making both a solid-colored version and a variegated version. The solid version is crocheted using a color called "Ranch Red" (pictured on this page.) The variegated version was crocheted using the yarn colorway named "Fall"; you can see a photo of the scarf and matching beanie in the project gallery.
- Crochet Hook: I crocheted both of my sample scarves using a size K crochet hook.
- Tapestry Needle: You'll need this for weaving in ends when you are finished crocheting the scarf.
- Stitch Marker: You'll need a stitch marker for temporarily marking a stitch. You don't need anything fancy for this; a small safety pin will work fine.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
- ch = chain
- ch-1 sp = chain-1 space, the space formed when you crocheted a chain stitch in the previous row
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- st = stitch
Finished Size: My sample scarves each measure 4 inches wide. My solid scarf is about 52 inches and the variegated scarf is about 55 inches.
Stitch Gauge: To check your stitch gauge, crochet 10 - 12 rows of the pattern and then measure the width of the scarf. Compare that measurement against my measurement of 4 inches. If your scarf is turning out wider than my samples, you might want to consider starting over with a smaller crochet hook; if it's turning out narrower, you could use a larger crochet hook. That's up to you.
If the scarf looks like it will be wearable in the width you have made it, there's no need to start over, assuming you bought plenty of yarn. As long as you are satisfied with the width, running out of yarn is the most pressing problem you'd have to worry about if your scarf is turning out substantially wider than my sample.
Row Gauge: For this particular pattern, row gauge is not important, because the length of the scarf is determined by the number of rows you crochet. You can crochet as many rows as you like to achieve your desired scarf length; you do not need to bother with trying to match my row gauge.
The brackets  denote a set of instructions to be repeated.
If you have a hard time finding your ch-1 spaces, try carefully poking your finger at the row of stitches from back to front. I find it easier to locate the spaces by touch than by sight.
You will end up with a total of 7 sc sts in each row.
Scarf Crochet Instructions:
Row 1: Place a marker in the first ch from your hook. sc in 3rd ch from hook. [ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch.] Rep sequence in brackets 5 more times across the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: [sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1.] Rep the sequence in brackets 5 more times across the row. At the end of the row, work a sc st into the st where you placed the marker; you can remove the marker before working the stitch. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 3 and Up: The rest of the rows are all exactly the same as row 2, with one minor difference: at the end of the row you'll work your last sc st into the turning chain of the previous row. Rep this row until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.
If you're not sure how long your scarf should be, help is here: check out our readers' recommendations for best scarf sizes.
Finishing the Scarf
End off, leaving enough yarn for you to weave in your ends. Thread your tapestry needle using this end of yarn and weave it into the work so that it cannot be seen. Repeat with any other loose ends you may have hanging around. Block if desired; if you used synthetic yarn, there is no need to block.
Be sure to check out our free patterns for the other accessories in this set.
See Also: How to crochet a scarf