Stump-Out is a chemical powder put out by Bonide and is commonly available in home improvement stores. It is a stump-remover product that helps accelerate the decomposition of wood. When I heard about this product, it sounded like a good option for frugal homeowners to deal with the last step in tree removal. So I decided to test it. Putting the power of chemical removal at your disposal, Stump-Out frees you, theoretically, from having to resort to manual stump removal. And as a relatively inexpensive product, you avoid the kind of cost incurred in renting a grinder or hiring a tree service to do grinding work.
How Does Stump-Out Work?
According to the product label, Stump-Out "dissolves the lignin binding between cellulose layers of the stump making it porous." The key ingredient is sodium metabisulfate. Many people associate Stump-Out with burning, but burning is merely an optional step you can take at the end of the project to get rid of a stump more quickly.
Preparing to Use Stump Remover
Stump-Out is most effective on tree stumps that have been allowed to dry out. In other words, if you've just had a tree removed (but decided against paying the cost for grinding), you'll want to wait a while before applying this chemical. I conducted my test on a tree that had snapped off in a wind storm; I had waited a few years for it to dry out. Recommended minimal waiting times are:
- 12 months for a small tree
- 18 months for a large tree
The more stump you have sticking out of the ground, the longer it will take to break down. I cut mine down to a height of 24 inches. Shorter would have been better, but I settled for the 2-foot height for two reasons:
- I was using a small electric chain saw not intended for heavy work, so I was hesitant to attempt cutting where the diameter was greatest (namely, at the base of the stump)
- Since my project was mainly experimental (as a means of reviewing Stump-Out), my main goal was to witness decomposition step by step, as it occurred, rather than achieving the fastest possible breakdown.
How to Use Stump-Out
I decided to apply the stump remover in the fall and followed the directions provided as best I could:
- Drill four holes down through the top of the stump (two holes for small stumps); holes should go down 10 inches and be 1 inch in diameter.
- Measure about 4 inches down from the top along the sides of the stump, and drill four similar holes on the sides (two holes for small stumps). Slope the holes down at an angle so they intersect the bottoms of the vertical holes.
- Pour 4 ounces of Stump-Out powder into each hole (there are 16 ounces per container, just about the right amount for a moderately sized tree such as mine).
- Pour water into the holes.
- Wait about 6 weeks.
At the end of the 6-week waiting period, you then have the option of burning the stump. If, on the other hand, you had already decided against burning, simply check on the progress of decomposition. If the stump has broken down significantly but not enough to proclaim victory, you may wish to break up the stump manually (using an axe and or mattock), or you can buy more Stump-Out and reapply it (which is what I did).
Notes on Using Stump-Out
Drilling the intersecting holes as per the directions above is important in two respects if you plan on burning the stump afterward:
- You'll be pouring kerosene or fuel oil into the side holes, and you want this liquid to run down toward the middle of the stump; the slope will make this possible.
- The ventilation accomplished by intersecting the tunnels will play a key role once the stump is aflame.
Even though the stump in my project was a few years old, I discovered plenty of hard wood in its center (the heartwood) when drilling the holes. By contrast, bark, cambium, and some of the outer wood on the sides were starting to get punky.
Burn, Baby, Burn?
After the 6-week waiting period, the question then becomes whether or not to take advantage of the burning option. Of course, the decision may not ultimately rest with you. Landscaping rules for HOAs often forbid such activities.
For those who do wish to burn, here are the directions provided by Bonide:
- Pour kerosene or fuel oil down the side holes.
- Give the stump time to absorb this liquid.
- Pour additional kerosene on top of the stump.
- Set it on fire, taking the precautions recommended for whenever one uses fire.
According to the product directions, "the stump will burn with a smoldering red glow down to the roots."
According to the product label, Stump-Out will not do damage to adjacent landscape plants. Furthermore, the label claims that even if you take the optional step of adding kerosene or oil at the end of your project, there will be no open flame or explosion.
I question the claim that no open flame is involved if you undertake burning. There may not be an open flame at the end of the process (when the roots are being consumed by fire), but initially there will, in fact, be an open flame if you use kerosene to start the fire. In any case, you must make sure that stump-burning of any kind is allowed by law in your area. Also check with HOA rules, as applicable.
In the ideal scenario, you'll follow the manufacturer's steps to the letter, and in six weeks you'll be rid of the stump. But now -- based on my own test project -- let me paint a more realistic picture. This is how the project is more likely to go for the average suburban homeowner who attempts stump removal with Stump-Out.
First of all, you'll need a powerful drill, a 1-inch spade bit, and a bit extension. If you don't have these supplies, you'll have to borrow or buy them. The bit extension is required because to reach the specified 10-inch hole depth; a standard bit by itself reaches only only about 5 inches. It's especially important to have a powerful drill if your stump contains a lot of hardwood, which is difficult to drill through.
I began my project in the fall, and the stump exhibited no noticeable deterioration during the cold-weather months that followed. It had rotted some when I checked again in spring, and I removed some of this rotted wood, drilled new holes, and added more Stump-Out. By July, there was additional decomposition. Again, I removed the decomposed wood, did more drilling, and applied more Stump-Out.
What was left at this point was mainly the heartwood. It probably wouldn't have been difficult to remove it manually, but I wanted to leave a bit of stump so that I could experiment with burning. Following the directions, I ended up pouring about a gallon of kerosene on the stump, then set it on fire. Frankly, I was disappointed with the results. I found that I had almost as much stump left after the fire as before. I aborted the experiment and finished the job with my trusty mattock.
Is Stump-Out Worth It?
If you're an able-bodied person capable of a little physical work, I would not recommend you bother with Bonide's Stump-Out. By the time you're through running around to buy the Stump-Out, the kerosene, any tools you may need, etc., you could have the tree stump out of the ground using an axe or a mattock. The cost to you? Some sweat on your brow and perhaps a tender back. But hey, you can get that going to the gym!
True, if you let the Stump-Out sit in the holes of the stump long enough, the wood will eventually break down, even without the use of flame. But that same wood will also eventually decompose naturally (especially if you keep it moist). This product does not seem to dramatically hasten decomposition. So if you don't wish to become good friends with a mattock (or find some other way to remove the stump quickly), I advise simply exercising a bit more patience. Bonide's powder offers no quick fix.