One great thing about installing drywall is that it is so inexpensive. None of the materials will bankrupt you. This is simple stuff: paper, gypsum, metal, screws, and some strips of plastic.
You can tear out the existing drywall or plaster/lath in a room and re-wall it inexpensively. This cost even factors in your drywall tools but not insulating or running electricity.
It is a great feeling to have all-new walls in a room where before you only had crumbling plaster or moldy, saggy wallboard. All you need are a few simple items.
01 of 05
Drywall—often called wallboard or called by one of its brand names, Sheetrock—is inexpensive, readily available, and easy to handle.
Drywall can get a bit more expensive if you purchase a specialty product like ultra-light drywall or sound-proof drywall. But even those pricier materials, at their hearts, are just gypsum sandwiched between two layers of paper.
Drywall comes in convenient sheets that are 8 feet long and 4 feet wide. Often, they are doubled-up, two boards to a pack. Half-inch drywall is normally for walls, though it is used for ceilings as well. Slightly thicker drywall is used on garage walls that adjoin the house or in fire-prone areas, such as furnace rooms.
02 of 05
Joint Compound (Mud)
Until some genius invents a better, cleaner, faster way to join pieces of drywall and cover up holes, you're stuck with joint compound.
Commonly called "mud," this material comes either ready-mixed in plastic tubs or dry in paper bags. Don't minimize how great it is to have the water pre-mixed into your joint compound; correctly mixing mud can be difficult for do-it-yourselfers.
If you're mudding just a room or two, you will find it advantageous to buy pre-mixed mud; the cost savings is not enough to warrant mixing up the dry compound.
If you want to reduce drywall dust, low-dust joint compound will significantly reduce—though not eliminate—those classic far-reaching clouds of drywall dust that will crawl even to the opposite end of the house. Low-dust drywall compound costs about twice as much as regular mud, but many users find the extra cost worthwhile.
Topping mix compound is usually applied on the final coat. It spreads smoother and sands easier than general purpose compound.
03 of 05
Tape is used to join sheets of drywall. Embedded in the mud, it forms a hard connection after the mud has dried.
The best thing about it, it's just paper—which means that it is cheap. If you think that paper tape isn't strong, think again. Try demolishing an old wall joined with paper tape embedded into the mud and you'll find that the joints are just about as strong as the drywall itself.
The paper tape serves to join all connections, except for outside corners. Use paper tape:
- Butt-joining two sheets (two flat ends, no taper)
- Joining two sheets that each has a tapered end
- Joining drywall sheets on inside corners
Alternatively, if you want to spend a bit more, flat fiberglass tape provides a super-strong joint and, the best thing of all, it self-adheres. Paper tape requires you to first lay down a thin coat of mud to get the tape to stick. But Fibatape already has an adhesive backing.
The good thing about this—besides removing a step from the work process—is that the tape lays onto a perfectly flat board. With paper tape, there is the chance of embedding it into lumpy, less-than-smooth mud.
04 of 05
Outside Corner Bead
With walls, you've got either inside or outside corners. Inside corners can be formed with paper tape. Embedded paper tape easily chips when sharply struck. Outside corners are prone to strikes. Moving a piece of furniture, or even hitting the corner with a coffee mug, can be enough to chip corners. That is why you use corner bead.
The secret behind the corner bead is that the outermost edge of your outside corner is a material other than the drywall compound. Depending on which type of corner bead you choose, that outermost edge is either metal or plastic. When painted, the transition from the metal/plastic corner to the joint compound disappears.Continue to 5 of 5 below.
05 of 05
If you have ever remodeled a house built before the 1980s. you may have encountered nails affixing the drywall to the studs. Even if you're not tearing down walls, you may have noticed distinctive nail-pops: small circles jutting through the paint, just far enough to be annoying.
This is the reason behind drywall screws. Nails pop out; screws don't. Make sure your screws are a coarse-thread, not fine thread, for surer grip in wood studs. Verify that these screws are phosphate-coated to resist corrosion. A good length is 1-5/8 inch-long drywall screws for either 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch thick drywall.
Purchase just one pound, to begin with, to ensure that you and these particular screws get along together well. If you like them, then buy in bulk. Otherwise, you'll be stuck with a broken-up 25 lb. box of screws that the store will refuse to take back.