Most Valley-brand faucets use a single-handle design with a cartridge insert that is very similar to that used by many other brands. It is an older faucet design largely replaced by more modern cartridge-style faucets, but many of these older faucets are still in service. The repair steps shown here will work for several other brands of ball-type faucets as well as Valley shower faucets that use the same design.
The most common Valley faucet repair parts involve replacing the valve seats and springs. These are typically packaged together and sold as a kit. If replacing the seats and springs does not stop the leak, the next step is to replace the cartridge itself. But it is always better to start with the cheapest and easiest repair first.
- Valley faucet repair parts—kit with valve seats and springs
- Allen wrench (hex wrench)
- Tongue-and-groove pliers
- Spray lubricant (as needed)
- Masking tape (optional)
- Faucet grease (optional)
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 1
Loosen the setscrew that secures the handle, using an Allen wrench. Pull straight up on the handle to remove it. It's usually not necessary to remove the setscrew entirely to remove the handle.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 2
Remove the bonnet nut on top of the faucet body, using tongue-and-groove pliers. The nut may stick if the faucet has not been disassembled in years. Position the pliers on the knurled ring on the nut to get a good grip and to prevent damaging the nut.
If the nut is stuck, apply some spray lubricant to the nut and let it sit for a few minutes before trying again. Tip: Wrap masking tape over the pliers' jaws so they won't scratch the finish on the faucet.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 3
Make a note of the cartridge's orientation in the faucet body; you will re-install it in the same position.
Lift out the cartridge from the faucet body. If you can't pull it out by hand, use a screwdriver on each side of the cartridge to wedge it out. On the left side of the cartridge, wedge a small flathead screwdriver under the tab that sticks out to the side. On the right side, you may need a thin screwdriver to fit in between the cartridge and the faucet housing. The cartridge should pull straight out once it is loosened.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 4
Note the orientation of the rubber seats inside the holes in the base of the faucet body. The new seats must go in the same way to create a seal. Underneath each seat is a small spring and a white insert. Using a small screwdriver, carefully remove the seats, springs, and inserts.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 5
Install the new valve seats and springs just like the old ones. The plastic insert goes into the spring on the bottom, and the rubber seat goes on the top. The parts are interchangeable, so either seat/spring from the kit will work in either hole.
Slide the three pieces onto a screwdriver to keep them in position while you fit them into the hole in the faucet body. Push them into place all the way down with your finger. They should stick up just a bit but will spring down when you push on them.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 6
Apply a small amount of faucet grease to the rubber O-ring on the cartridge. This is optional but always a good idea to help keep the faucet action smooth. If the repair kit includes a new O-ring, replace the old O-ring, then lubricate the new one.
Fit the cartridge into the faucet body, lining up the tab on the side of the cartridge with the corresponding slot in the faucet body. Push the cartridge straight down until it is fully seated in the faucet body.
How to Repair a Valley Ball-Type Faucet: Step 7
Screw the bonnet nut back into place and tighten it by hand. As long as the cartridge was pushed all the way into position, the nut will hold the cartridge in place. If the nut was difficult to remove, put some grease on the nut threads so it will come off more easily in the future.
Reattach the handle and tighten the setscrew with the Allen wrench. Turn the water back on and check for leaks.