Vintage & Collectible Costume Jewelry Marks

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    ART

    ca. late 1940s-1980 ART - One of the marks used by Mode-Art. - Jay B. Siegel

    Manufacturer's Marks and Designer Signatures on Costume Jewelry

    This guide provides both vintage and contemporary collectible jewelry marks, and includes dating information if known. Links to examples of each designer or manufacturer's jewelry are included below the mark when available.

    NOTE: Some information included with photos in this gallery (Chanel, Ciner, and others) will link to a sub-article where numerous marks from different time periods for the same company or designer can be...MORE viewed.

    References for this guide include: Research compiled by Pamela Y. Wiggins, Researching Costume Jewelry at www.illusionjewels.com, MorningGloryAntiques.com, Warman’s Jewelry (3rd Edition) by Christie Romero, American Jewelry Manufacturers by Dorothy T. Rainwater, European Designer Jewelry by Ginger Moro, CJCI Magazine (www.costumejewelrycollectors.com) and others as indicated with each mark selection.

    Mark shown used after 1955 as indicated by the copyright symbol. Also used the mark Mode Art.

    Mode-Art, a jewelry company founded in New York City in the late 1940s, was owned by Arthur Pepper. Mode-Art competed directly with Florenza in terms of style but the founders of both companies counted one another as friends, as related to Pamela Wiggins by Larry Kassoff, the son of Florenza's founder.

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    Chanel

    Chanel Round 1970s Mark
    Ca. 1970s - Early 1980s Chanel Round 1970s Mark. - Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    This is one of several similar marks used by the House of Chanel in the 1970s moving into the early 1980s. For more Chanel mark examples, click here.

    This 1970s mark shows the copyright and registered symbols above CHANEL in block letters on a round cartouche. Below that is the familiar interlocking CC logo and "Made in France." Marks from this era can be found both with and without the circular outline shown here.

    Chanel has used many different marks since the 1960s including both round...MORE and oval cartouche signature plates and sometimes stamping CHANEL directly into the piece. The earliest pieces of Chanel jewelry were unmarked. Most of the older pieces from the 1930s, '40s and '50s are in private collections and rarely come up for sale on the secondary market.

    Costume jewelry by the House of Chanel is unique in that once the season has passed and pieces are no longer available in boutiques, they're already considered collectible on the secondary market.

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    Ciner

    Ciner Jewelry Mark
    Ca. 1931-present Ciner Jewelry Mark Used Prior to 1955. Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    This is one of several similar marks used by Ciner on vintage costume jewelry. For more Ciner mark examples and related dating information, click here.

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    Craft

    Craft Jewelery Mark
    Craft Jewelry Mark. Photo by Jay B. Siegel for ChicAntiques.com

    This is the mark of Gem-Craft, a company doing business in the Providence, Rhode Island area. Ron Verri, owner of the company, confirmed that the business is no longer making jewelry under their own Craft brand. They are only doing jobs for others such as Oscar de la Renta and Kenneth Jay Lane as of 2015.

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    DeMario-Hagler

    Ca. mid-1960s DeMario-Hagler Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark used by Stanley Hagler on occasion as his shop used up leftover findings after a partnership between DeMario and Hagler failed to come to fruition.

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    Dominique

    Dominique Costume Jewelry Mark
    Dominique Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Dominique was used as the mark of Rhode Island jewelry designer Dominic DeToro until 2010. See below for more information on this designer.

    While some sellers refer to Dominique as a she (perhaps confusing the name with French jewelry designer Dominique Aurientis), jewelry with this mark was produced for several decades by Dominic DeToro in his Rhode Island workshop. Referred to by his fans as "Dom," DeToro worked for a company that produced jewelry bearing the names Weiss and Eisenberg...MORE during the 1950s and he has employed the same "vintage" techniques to manufacture his own quality jewelry line. He is known for large rhinestone collar and bib necklaces, which are quite popular with collectors. DeToro's most famous and avidly collected pieces, however, are his Christmas tree pins, which have appeared in a number of books devoted to collectible holiday jewelry. The earliest Dominique pieces were unsigned, and sometimes his early necklaces are confused with Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) designs. He began signing his jewelry in the early 1990s and retired from the jewelry business in 2010.

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    Fashioncraft Robert

    ca. 1942-1979 Fashioncraft Robert Mark. - Pamela Y. Wiggins

    Began in New York City as The Fashioncraft Jewelry Co. and was renamed Robert Originals Inc. in the early 1960s. Early jewelry was marked Fashioncraft Robert.

    "Robert" refers to Robert Levy, one of the original founders of Fashioncraft. Styles are often similar to Miriam Haskell and DeMario designs, although they were not related.

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    Hannah

    Ca. 1990s Hannah Buslee Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Hannah Buslee designed jewelry using semi-precious stones, freshwater pearls, Swarovski crystals and antique beads wired to filigree plates.

    Hannah Buslee began designing contemporary versions of costume jewelry reminiscent of older hand-wired pieces made by Haskell, DeMario, and Robert in 1992. Her designs were sold in Washington boutiques in the Puget Sound area and stores along the East Coast. They are of high quality and many are one-of-a-kind and/or limited edition pieces.

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    Hollycraft

    Ca. 1950s Hollycraft 1950's Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark of Hollywood Jewelry Mfg. Co. (1936-late '70s) founded by Joseph Chorbajian. Produced jewelry in the 1940s bearing a paper Hollywood Mfg. Co. hangtag.

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    Kenneth Jay Lane - K.J.L.

    K.J.L. Mark Dating to the 1960s & Early 1970s
    Ca. 1960s-Early 1970s K.J.L. Mark Dating to the 1960s & Early 1970s. - Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    Mark used on the first Kenneth Jay Lane jewelry dating to the 1960s and early 1970s.

    Kenneth Jay Lane began his career designing shoes for Christian Dior in the early 1960s. Not long after, he worked with Arnold Scassi making jewelry to coordinate with a line of faux gem-studded shoes. Since “falling into” the business close to 50 years ago, Lane’s fabulously fake costume jewelry has been owned, worn and collected by celebrities, the wives of American presidents and royalty alike.

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    Marvella

    Ca. 1911 - present Marvella Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    This New York company's most well-known lines feature faux pearls, but they used many different materials including crystal beads and rhinestones.

    Marvella originated as a line of jewelry manufactured by the Weinrich Bros. Co. The Jewelers’ Circular published Oct. 1919 refers to the Weinreich Bros. located in Philadelphia where the company is reported to have been founded in 1911. At some point the brothers moved their business to New York City, as referenced in 1950s jewelry patents...MORE registered by the company.

    The company is reported to have changed its name to Marvella, Inc. around 1965 after several iterations of similar names. Marvella was purchased by Trifari in the early 1980s and eventuall became part of the Liz Claiborne group. As of 2010, jewelry is still being distributed in department stores and other retail outlets on cards bearing the Marvella name.

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    Matisse Renoir

    Ca. mid-1950s Matisse Renoir Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark of Renoir of California (1948-1964) used on enameled copper jewelry introduced in 1952. Copyright symbol was added to mark in the mid-'50s.

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    Mazer

    Mazer Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark used by Joseph Mazer from 1946-1981 after leaving Mazer Brothers. "Mazer Bros." mark used mid-'20s to 1951. Joseph Mazer also used "JOMAZ" mark.

    Because jewelry marked Mazer was made through several decades, the style of each piece should be used as a guide for dating. See link to Mazer examples below.

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    Mimi di N

    Ca. 1960s Mimi di N Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark used by Mimi di Niscemi. Some pieces were dated in the '70s and '80s with a more block-style Mimi di N mark.

    Mimi di Niscemi worked with Arnold Scassi, Robert DeMario, and Brania before forming her own company.

    Note: There is a Web presence marketing jewelry as the official Mimi di N site selling cast pins and buckles as of 2010. These pieces do not appear to be as finely crafted as Mimi di N pieces made during the 1960s through the '80s.

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    Mistar Bijoux

    Mistar Bijoux Mark
    Ca. 1990-2000s Mistar Bijoux Mark. Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    Trademark for this brand was filed by L'Etoile, Inc. of Los Angeles, Calif. in 1990 and cancelled in 2003. Used on good quality rhinestone earrings, bracelets and necklaces sold in department stores such as Dillard's and Macy's. Phone to business disconnected as of 2012 but may have been out of business as early as 2003.

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    Original by Robert

    Ca. 1942-1979 Original by Robert Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Began in New York City as The Fashioncraft Jewelry Co. and was renamed Robert Originals Inc. in the early 1960s. Early jewelry was marked Fashioncraft Robert.

    "Robert" refers to Robert Levy, one of the original founders of Fashioncraft. Styles are often similar to Miriam Haskell and DeMario designs, although they were not related.

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    Ornella

    Ca. 1950s Ornella Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Ornella jewelry, designed by Maria Vittoria Albani, was produced in Milan, Italy. Not a common manufacturer. Worked with glass beads and natural elements.

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    Pennino

    Ca. 1926-1966 Pennino Sterling Costume Jewelry Mark.

    Company was founded as Pennino Bros. in New York City in 1926. Pennino marks, sometimes small and lightly stamped, can be easily overlooked.

    1940s examples marked Pennino Sterling (as shown) may have a gold wash over the silver. Pennino jewelry is finely crafted and exquisite real-look pieces are avidly sought by collectors.

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    Pell

    Ca. 1941 to present Pell Costume Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    New York company founded by the Gaita brothers in 1941. Mark with copyright symbol shown used after 1955. Prior mark was PELL in block letters.

    Pell has made jewelry and tiaras in conjunction with many entities including Disney, the Miss America Organization, and Coro. The company's jewelry has also been merchandised on QVC. Alfred Gaita Jr. currently runs the business.

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    Regency

    Ca. 1950-1970 Regency Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Mark of Regina Novelty Co. established in New York City in 1950. Also used the Regency Jewels mark on what appear to be their later styles and beaded necklaces.

    Regency jewelry was manufactured using high quality rhinestones, art glass stones and glass beads. Some of their most valuable pieces feature saphiret cabochons.

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    Schoffel & Co., Austria

    Schoffel & Co. Crown Mark
    Ca. 1930s-1960s Schoffel & Co. Crown Mark. Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    Jewelry bearing the crown mark as shown was made by Schoffel & Co. of Austria. The crown mark is sometimes accompanied by the word “Austria” or “Made in Austria” but was also used alone. This company was known for making jewelry using quality Austrian crystal rhinestones in designs ranging from dainty and feminine to flashy and complex. Known to be in business as early as the 1930s and believed to be active in jewelry production into the 1960s.

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    SENT Murano

    SENT Murano Jewelry Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Hangtag mark found on contemporary jewelry handcrafted in Murano, Italy by the studio of sisters Susanna and Marina Sent using fine Venetian glass.

    According to the Sent website, the Sent sisters are descendants of Venetian glass makers. Susanna studied architecture and Marina focused on chemistry in their schooling, but came back together to form a business creating uniquely designed jewelry using Venetian glass beads and other components like wood and paper to create wearable artistic...MORE expressions.

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    Warner

    Ca. 1950s-1970s Warner Mark. - Jay B. Siegel

    Company founded by Joseph Warner in the early 1950s. Used high quality stones and materials. Well-known for japanned (blackened) metal settings.

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    Whiting & Davis

    Whiting & Davis 1950s Mark
    Ca. 1950s Whiting & Davis 1950s Mark. - Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    This logo features wording similar to the logo used on the company's metal mesh handbags without the "mesh bags" denotation. See below.

    The mark shown here is from a pair of Whiting & Davis earrings from the 1950s.

    To learn more about Whiting & Davis costume jewelry, click here.

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    Wm de Lillo

    Wm. deLillo Jewelry Mark
    ca. late 1960s Wm. de Lillo Jewelry Mark. Photo by Jay B. Siegel

    Mark of William de Lillo and Robert Clark (former head designer for Miriam Haskell in the early '60s) first used in 1967. Some pieces are marked only de Lillo. See below for more information on de Lillo and Clark.

    William de Lillo's partnership with Robert Clark began after de Lillo had worked for Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston in the fine jewelry space, according to Adornment magazine. The costume jewelry they produced incorporated fine components including Swarovski rhinestones and...MORE quality crystal beads. Pieces bearing the Wm de Lillo or deLillo mark are desirable to collectors today. The team ceased production of their jewelry lines in the mid-'70s and moved to France then doing freelance work for design houses such as Schiaparelli and Nina Ricci.