How to Wash, Iron, and Store Tablecloths and Linens

Entertaining is so much easier when tablecloths, table runners, cloth napkins, and placemats are ready to use. Even heirloom linens that we use only a few times each year, can be kept looking their best by washing, ironing and storing them correctly.

Working time: Up to 1 hour

Total time: 2 hours

Skill level: Intermediate

• Laundry detergent
• Stain remover
• Water
• Oxygen-based bleach (optional)
• Bluing (optional)
• Starch or sizing (optional)

• Washer
• Dryer
• Iron
• Ironing board
• Pressing cloth (optional)

Not all tablecloths are cotton or linen these days. All newer table linens, including man-made fabrics, have a care tag with instructions on how to wash them. If you are not familiar with washing vintage damask, lace, brocade, and beaded or embellished fabrics with no labels you cannot go wrong by washing them by hand in cool water.

If you have a white cotton, linen or synthetic fiber cloth that is dingy or has yellowed or become dingy you should remedy the situation before you iron or store the linens.

Mix a solution of warm water and oxygen-based bleach powder following the product directions in a large sink or tub. Submerge the linen and allow it to soak overnight. Then wash as usual. An oxygen bleach soak is safe for hand-painted linens if the paint has been set properly, printed, and colored fabrics.

Laundry bluing can be added to the wash or rinse water to make white linens appear brighter.

If you've selected permanent press fabrics you can skip much of this section. But even those fabrics get wrinkled if you store linens crammed in a drawer.

• Before you begin, make sure that the soleplate of the iron is clean. If you’re using a steam iron, test it on an old cloth to be sure no mineral deposits are being left by the iron. Those droplets will cause brown staining.
• Use a well-padded ironing board with a smooth heat-reflective cover. If you don't have an ironing board, follow these steps.
• Place your ironing board near a table when ironing large items such as tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board.
• If you are concerned about the cloth getting soiled as it puddles on the floor, place a clean white sheet under the ironing board.
• The linens should be slightly damp for easier ironing. Press them until they are smooth but not completely dry and allow them to finish drying in the air.
• Start with the wrong side of the cloth first, pushing the cloth section by section over the board as you iron. Turn the cloth over and finish by pressing on the right side of the cloth.
• Starch or Sizing? If you like to fold napkins into fancy shapes, you’ll need to use starch and a hot setting on your iron to get the crispness you need. For a softer look, use spray-on sizing and iron on a medium setting.
• For light-colored linens, iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen. On dark-colored articles, iron on the wrong side only.
• Many napkins or placemats have monograms. To keep the stitched monograms looking crisp and smooth, iron with the design face down against a thick, terry towel that is white or colorfast. The soft texture will prevent the monogram from being flattened. After ironing the monogram face down on the towel, finish by pressing the right side of the napkin but iron around the monogram.
• Do not fold or store freshly ironed linens. They should be kept spread out flat and smooth for some time to dry completely.

Unless the table linen is a vintage piece that requires extensive repairs, most small holes can be mended by hand- or machine-stitching with matching threads. Many repairs can be camouflaged with appliques or other embellishments. An experienced tailor or seamstress can often make repairs to vintage linens.

Linens can be stored flat or hanging but always in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. To store flat, wrap each piece in acid-free tissue paper, not regular tissue paper. The acids in regular tissue paper can yellow white linens. Use the tissue between folds to soften edges; any crisp creases can weaken fibers.

Place heavier pieces like placemats on the bottom, then fabric tablecloths and napkins and place lace pieces on top of the stack. It is better to store linens that have not been starched because starch can attract insects.

At least twice per year, refold the linens to prevent continued stress on any one area.

Using a padded hanger is the best way to prevent wrinkles on permanent press or freshly ironed linens. Hang only one cloth per padded hanger and leave plenty of room between hangers so air can circulate. You can also use an over the door hanger and pad the rods for long term storage.

You can also prevent wrinkles by rolling the linens around a cardboard tube. If they will be stored for more than a week or so, make sure that the cardboard is acid-free to prevent staining.