The herringbone stitch is worked along parallel lines on an evenweave fabric. These lines can be marked using a water soluble fabric pen or pencil, or you can count the threads in your fabric to space the stitches.
How to Work Herringbone Stitch
Working left to right, bring the needle up through the fabric at the lower left (point 1) and work a stitch diagonally to the upper right (point 2).
Bring the needle up again to the left of the insertion hole (point 3), and then work a stitch diagonally to the lower right (point 4).
Come back up to the left of this (point 5), which becomes the new point 1 so you are ready to repeat to the end of the row.
Herringbone stitches can be worked closely together to form a dense line, or spaced further apart for a looser line.
Herringbone Stitch Variations
A wider or two-color band can be worked using the double herringbone stitch. To do this, stitch a second row of herringbone over the first, staggering the placement so that it fits in the gaps of the first row. When worked densely, this variation resembles a braid.
Tied herringbone stitch is worked first as a regular row of herringbone stitch. Next, add a small vertical tacking stitch at the point where the stitches cross. This can be in the same color or a contrasting thread.
To work laced herringbone stitch, start with a row of basic herringbone. Using a second thread (typically in a different color), weave the needle so it passes under the diagonal stitches and over the point where the stitches cross.
Originally written by Chery Fall and updated by Mollie Johanson.